Mail Order Plants

Many people order their seeds from catalogs because they cannot find the types of seeds they need in their local area. If you are thinking of ordering your seeds from a catalog this year, then you should plan now to start getting the right ones ordered.

Step one is to order the catalogs you want. Check online for lists of gardening catalogs or ask your gardening friends. You also can look in gardening magazines for advertisements. Although there are scores of catalogs available, you should order only the ones that you think may be of interest. If you live in the Pacific Northwest, then Awesome Tropical Seeds will not do you any good. Stay away; it only will serve to give you too many choices.

Once the catalog arrives, you will need to pick out the plants. Now you probably will notice that these plants are fairly pricy. That is because they are special-order plants. You are paying for the fact that they are not in your local area and for the additional care that must be taken in shipping these plants. Still you can rest assured that the plants you order through the mail are well taken care of, so you do not need to worry about their quality as much as if you were purchasing cheap from a retailer.

When the plants arrive, you will need to take care to open them and get them started growing immediately. You should look at the amount of time the plants take to ship so that you can try to time your order with the time you will be able to plant the seeds or seedlings that you have ordered. If you end up with the plants too early, then you will need to purchase containers to put them in before you even open the box. Remember that the plants are very delicate but are protected while they are in the box. Keep them that way until you are ready to move them. This prep time should not take more than a day or so, however, as the plants are not intended to survive in the box for long.

When you are ready, remove the lid from the box carefully. A leaf or two may fall out, but the bulk of the plant should remain intact. In fact, you should find that each plant is in a separate container or hole in the box and that the plants all have labels on them. If they do not have labels, after saying mean things about the seed company, you should get a catalog and compare the pictures with your invoice. Make sure that you can tell what each plant is before getting it out. Otherwise call the customer service line for the catalog company to ask for help.

The plant most likely will have a little tag with the name. If you are getting tiny rooted plants, then you should be able to tuck the tag underneath the plant. That will work best for getting each plant out, so try to find a way to get the tag underneath the plant roots quickly. They will hold the roots and compost together while you are in the process of transferring the plants.

Next you will need to put the plant in its home, whether that is your yard or a small plant in your home. If you will be moving the plant again, be careful that you will be able to transplant it. Otherwise you should be good to go once you get the plant in its new home. Put some fertilizer or compost in with the plant and water it. Remove any dead or dying leaves now so that they do not contaminate the remainder of the plant.

Now you can sit back and enjoy. Be sure that you mark which companies sent great seeds and seedlings and which did not. You will want to know where you got the plants next year so that you can order from the same companies again and avoid the ones with less flattering plants. You will need to begin ordering new catalogs each year so that you can plan for your seeds and seedlings each winter.

Planning a Basic Urban Garden

Building an urban garden is becoming a trend in cities all across the United States. If you live in an apartment, gone are the days when you thought you could not have a garden simply because you did not live in a house. Instead, now you have the option to have all types of gardening choices available to you, but you will need to do some basic research to make sure what you are doing is acceptable.

First, you should check with regulations regarding urban gardens. Some urban areas permit gardeners to grow any types of plants they would like while others limit the types of plants. You may be able to have only perennials or annuals, for instance, as there may be seasonal restrictions. You also may discover that you are not allowed plants that will grow over a certain height or that some types, such as herbs, are prohibited altogether.

In addition to your city, you should check with your apartment or condominium association. Chances are that they have their own restrictions based on the desires of the majority of the tenants. Certain plants may be banned because of their unsightly appearance or because of their likelihood to cause allergies. Whatever the restrictions, it is best that you adhere to them so that you do not find yourself with massive fines for ignoring basic laws.

Once you have figured out the rules, it is time to begin planning your own urban garden. Some people may want to have just one or two plants dotting the balcony while others want to grow an assortment. You may grow plants inside or outside in an urban garden, and you can work to create the best environment for your plants regardless of the location.

Your best bet if you are planning an indoor urban garden is to go with unique containers. Because you have little room in an apartment, you will want to make everything possible do double-duty. That means that a beautiful tin that you have can be painted and used to hold flowers or that you can use accent pieces to complement your decorating style and to grow your flowers. Be sure that you have curtains that are easy to tie back if you intend to use sunlight for your urban garden.

Outside urban gardeners will want to consider the same factors as other gardeners, such as the weather. Be sure that your selected plants will grow in your climate zone. If you are unsure of your climate zone, you can look this information up at your local library or online fairly easily. Knowing the correct climate zone will help guarantee that you choose plants that will thrive, which will make the experience all the more pleasant.

The best thing about having a garden is that you can enjoy the plants you create. In an urban garden, that means that you do not want a lot of plants because you will not have the space to enjoy them. Be sure that you pick an area where you can put plants a couple of feet apart so that you can enjoy each one of them instead of putting them so close together that you will not be able to see each plant.

Also think about the colors of your skyline or city when you are planning your urban garden. Some balconies overlook playgrounds or swimming pools. Try to pick flowers that will blend in the background of your view so that they will seem to create a seamless move from your home to the rest of the world.

Finally when you are planning an urban garden, give real consideration to how much time you have to devote to your plants and keep that in mind when you are getting plants. Some require little care, and if you work 70 hours a week, you need those plants. If you have a more leisurely pace, then you probably can get something that will need more of your attention. Remember that you are not limited by being in urban area. You simply need to make sure that you are able to think creatively about the type of plants you will be able to have in your garden plot.

Planting A Tin Can Garden

The first year I planted a garden, I used containers for the veggies. For some, it worked well, but for others, it was not the best idea. Still I like the idea of using the containers. Instead of purchasing them, I used containers I already had on hand. We kept any tin containers we used, such as coffee tins and ones with baby formula.

While I was proud of my little garden, it did not look so exciting. The cans started to get bent and a little rusted by the end of the summer. Later I stumbled on a great idea for a way to use the tin can idea in your garden but to make it look better. This idea is so wonderful and simple that it is something I intend to employ in my garden next year.

First note that this idea is intended for flower gardening and not vegetable gardening. You are looking for short-root plants to use for this little tin can garden. You could try doing herbs, and they probably would work because many of them have small root systems. The only problem with using the tin can garden for herbs is that you need to be able to reach your herbs easily to cut them.

At any rate, gather all of the tin cans you find, including ones used for canned vegetables. When you use the cans, you should wash them thoroughly at that time and turn them upside down to dry. Then you will need to go ahead and remove the labels from the can. If you do it before you wash the cans, then you can use the water to run over the labels and remove them better. If you feel the need to remove them completely, then you can try Goof-Off or another similar product to get the label glue off. Put the cans away until time for you to begin putting your garden together.

Once it is time for the garden, you will need to purchase a piece of wood. Plywood is recommend and will work well with this idea. Make sure that you are using a pressed sheet or the flat side and paint it using any exterior paint. You can do a solid color, pattern, scene, or whatever strikes you.

Next you will use a hammer and nail to put a small puncture hole in the bottom of the can. This hole will serve as drainage for your tin can garden. Next you will need metal snippers. Cut the top of the can off completely and cut a line straight down the center of the can. Use the snippers to go around half of the bottom part of the can and remove half of the bottom.

You will need to use pliers to fold out the sides of the can where there is no bottom. Then get the snippers out again and cut a V into each side. Put the can flat on the plywood with the side with the remaining bottom facing out. Once you have determined where each of the cans will go, you can put a tintack, two on each side, in the cans to hold them in place.

Once you have the cans in place, your garden is ready to begin planting. You will be able to put potting soil and plant seeds in the tins you have used to create your tin garden. If you know a vine or small climbing plant that grows in your area and has small roots, that may be perfect for this type of garden.

You will be able to rest the tin can garden against the side of your house or in another area where it will be seen. What you are doing is not permanent, which works well if you are in a temporary setting, and you will be able to enjoy it all season. The best part is that the entire garden is pretty cheap, especially considering you are probably using cans you already purchased, so redoing it in years to come will not seem so bad. Try out different types of flowers with this garden to see what works so that you can create a cool tin can garden for your yard this year.

Use Mexican Painted Pots for Your Container Garden

Planning a container garden is a great way to have more garden with little space or to create a movable garden. These gardens will be able to go wherever they work best at a given time or place. Perhaps you want a plant on the front porch this year but will move it to the deck next year of even for the Independence Day party you are planning. If you have a container garden, then you want to try to make your containers interesting. While you can use basic metal cans, such as coffee cans, you also may want to spruce them up, no pun intended, so that your containers are as much of a discussion point and provide as much aesthetic appeal as the plants themselves.



One way to create cool containers is to use this basic painting technique to make Mexican painted pots. (Those of you who are less creative can do a toned-down version of this plan. Just skip the last step.) You will need terra cotta pots of any size although you may want to plan out the plants before you buy. For the complete gardening novice, terra cotta pots are those basic orange clay pots you see everywhere. They are super-cheap, which is why they are so popular, and they actually are pretty durable little pots for your plants.

You also will need to go to a craft store and pick up some brushes of various sizes. You probably can get a basic set of brushes for a few dollars. Just make sure that you have them ranging from brush heads that are an inch or so down to the tiniest 1/16 of an inch brushes. You also should get white undercoat; be sure that the bottle says it works for exterior use. Then you will need gouache paint, which is better than your basic craft paint and will withstand being outdoors. Get the colors that excite you the most; they mostly come in very bright choices. Finally you will need a polyurethane matt varnish and some masking tape (cheap is fine) for your pots.

Whew! Now that you have the supplies, it is time to get down to business. You should put the pots out in an area where you can paint. Put newspaper under them so that you do not make a mess. Once you are set up, you should put the masking tape in strips around the pots. If you get different widths of the tape, you can create more variation; another way to get the difference is to cut the masking tape strips so that some are narrower than the roll.

Once you have several circles with the tape, you will need to use your widest brush and paint the entire pot (masking tape and all) with the white undercoat. Allow the undercoat to dry and use brushes that are roughly the width of each section not covered with the masking tape. Paint each adjacent section and different color and allow the paint to dry. Then you should take off the masking tape to reveal the rings that are still terra cotta.

Use the fine brushes and undercoat to create little designs, such as stripes, polka dots, and stars in the painted sections. (This step would be the one you skip if you want something plain.) Once the undercoat dries, cover the pot with the varnish and allow it to sit for a day before using it for planting.

If you do not want the terra cotta stripes, you can try variations, such as painting the entire pot with the undercoat or a light hue of the gouache paint before you begin. Then you will get that color as your base. Just be sure that you allow each coat of paint to dry completely before you move on, or you will end up with the colors running together.

These pots are a great way to get your container garden started. They work particularly well with cacti, which are desert plants. The motif of the Mexican painted plants will go well together, and if you want to add more flavor, try putting the plants over a Mexican-themed throw rug when you display them.

The Most Common Containers for Gardening

Most people who have any type of garden have containers. They may not realize it or use the term container gardening, but they almost always have some type of container in their garden, yard, or home that is used for planting. When you use the term, however, many people struggle to understand exactly what container gardening is and how they begin one.

Container gardening simply means that instead of planting seeds or bulbs into the ground, you will be planting them in a container. Then you will be taking care of individual plants, or in some cases a small row of plants, but you will not be working to take care of an entire garden of plants. Some people choose to plant in containers because they do not have enough space. Others love tulips and want some in the living room, so they opt for a small barrel of tulips for the inside. Still others use everything they can to plant because they love the smells and sights of gardening.

You can use almost any type of container for gardening as long as you clean it out thoroughly before you begin. Let us cover some of the most common containers, however, so that you can get an idea of your options. Terra cotta window boxes are probably the most common type of container. You also will see single plant terra cotta plant holders. Terra cotta is the orange clay-like substance used to make the most basic of planting containers. The benefit of these containers is that they are versatile and are made for plants. You can find them painted or paint them yourself. The downside of using terra cotta window boxes is that some of them do not hold up well in very cold temperatures, which means that you really should stick to using them inside.

Wooden window boxes also are an interesting container that you can buy ready-made for planting. The plus of these containers is that they permit you to paint or otherwise decorate them. Because their look is basic, they work with almost any scheme you have for planting. The disadvantage is that the pieces may splinter and need to be repaired or replaced.

For people with a little more in their container gardening budget, a stone trough will work. These troughs look like the terra cotta window boxes, but they hold up in the outside much better. In fact, they are made to be outdoors and often are used as decorative borders. These troughs are very expensive, though, and are heavy, so once you get them in place, you probably will want to leave them.

Some people are more creative with their containers and use baskets that they already have. These baskets can work really well with the right kind of plants. You will need to line the basket, probably with some type of moss, so that you can create a more solid bottom. You also will have to keep the plants in individual pots and remove them when you want to water them. You cannot water plants in the basket because the basket will rot. If you like the baskets, though, you will enjoy being able to move them when need be as they are very light and easy to change around.

Many gardeners love the fiber window boxes that are gaining in popularity. They are a little odd but look best with colorful annuals. These boxes look almost as if they belong in the ground instead of on top of it. They are dirt-colored and look from afar as if they are covered in dirt. The very plain design and color is why you need to use them with colorful flowers instead of non-flowering plants. You will need to replace them frequently as they do not last long.

Finally you can try galvanized tin, such as that in foot tubs and washtubs. You will need to drill holes in the bottom, which can be a pain, but otherwise you should be able to create a cool looking plant garden in one of these containers. While they once were seen only as utilitarian, now these tin troughs and tubs can serve a creative purpose as well.

Planning Garden Decorations

Although the winter is just settling in where we live, I find myself staring out and thinking of the spring and summer to come. I cannot wait to see the colors of spring popping up everywhere again. If you are like me, then you probably have given the spring months some thought with longing, but you have sat back and resigned yourself to the idea that you will have to work on the garden in the spring.

But wait! That does not mean you cannot think about your garden now! Make plans for what you want to do. I am not talking about the actual flowers here. Gardening is much more than just planting a few things in the ground. In fact, for many people the fun of gardening is about far more than the joy of planting the flowers. The joy comes in spending time in the garden and in getting pleasure from making the garden decorative.

Garden decorations abound and come in all sizes, types, and prices. If you want to add to your garden next year but think you have planted all of the flowers and trees you can, then think outside the living pieces of your garden. Imagine the paradise you could create with a few simple additions.

First, think about garden benches. Many gardeners have planted benches where they give a great view of the best parts of the garden. You can do so as well. A garden bench can be a great way to give yourself a spot to enjoy the work you have done. When you are looking for a bench, think about how ornate your garden is. If you have very basic plants in straight lines, then you probably want a similarly plain garden bench, and you can find them for $20-30. Gardeners who have done more to create curves and other features in their gardens may want to consider wrought iron benches or those with intricate design on them. In that case, you have more opportunity and probably can go up to $100 or so for a decent bench.

Beyond sitting, you should think about walking through your garden, especially if you have little feet that may not be respectful padding through. Most small children love to walk on garden stones because they seem fun, so you can try picking up a few pieces when the summer comes. The stones come in all shapes, and you should consider something really funky if you want to make the stones a talking point for visitors to your garden. If you go with the basic round gravel stones, then you can buy them for about $3 each. The odder varieties go up to about $10 each, so keep that in mind when planning.

If you are really creative, then you may want to make your own garden stones. You can make them using any type of plastic mold, such as a plant holder, a little cement, and some creativity. Use stones or various colored beads to create beautiful, unique designs in your garden stones. Then you allow them to dry for a few days and plant them in your garden. You can make these stones for anywhere from $3-5 each depending on the amount and quality of materials you purchase.

Other popular garden decorations include garden gazing balls. Once rumored to keep witches away from gardens, these shining balls now serve as an interesting addition to flower gardens. They also attract many birds according to garden lore. You can find these gazing balls for $20 or so at your garden center. Other garden ornaments, such as sticks with flags that you put out, name plates for your veggies, and hanging tree ornaments are around everywhere in the spring. Look at your yard and determine where you would put such additions and what you would like. Perhaps there is a tree that does not have the soil around it to plant perennials but that would be a great spot for a flag. Write it down now and keep your eye out when you go shopping in the spring.

Looking for gardening additions year round is a fun way to make sure that you can still enjoy the idea of your garden even when it is cold.

Inorganic Mulch

Organic mulch was at one point alive. Inorganic mulch never was. While it may be surprising to many gardeners, inorganic matter can be used effectively as mulch and depending on what type of material is used, encourage your garden to grow and flourish. Inorganic mulch selections have grown to include a variety of products that are much more interesting than the gravel or black plastic of days gone by. Before making your next mulch purchase, explore the world of inorganic mulch and see if it is the right finishing touch to your garden.

Mulch is recommended by most gardening experts for moisture retention. The NC State University horticulture department estimates that ten to twenty-five percent of soil moisture is lost through evaporation. When it does rain, the raindrops cause the soil to compact increasing water runoff and soil erosion. A two to four inch layer of mulch can retain moisture in the ground and increase soil aeration. Not only will the mulch reduce the gardener's need to water plants, as is noted by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Natural Resources Conservation Service, mulch will also maintain an even soil temperature, prevent weed growth and keep the garden environment clean. Mulch gives the garden a finished look, thus increasing its visual appeal.

Certain gardening conditions do contraindicate mulch applications. If your garden beds are severely infected with slugs , snails or other insects, mulch application may increase your problems. It may be prudent to not mulch for a year, as you manage your pest problem. Poor drainage may also be a reason for not mulching. At the very least research the best type of ground cover for areas that do not drain well. Mulch maintains moisture in the ground. If you have an area that does not drain well, you could be creating swamp like conditions if you mulch with moisture retaining material. Bacteria and fungus can grow and damage plants planted in too moist ground. Furthermore, this area will prove a perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes. Before mulching poor drainage areas, either solve the drainage problems or research ground covering that promotes good drainage.

Inorganic mulch is generally reserved for those areas of your landscape that are permanent in nature. The area around foundation plantings, walkways and areas that are not planted with annuals are perfect areas to consider using inorganic mulch. Gravel is one type of inorganic mulch that allows your plants to grow yet inhibits weed growth. Gravel sinks into the ground and is difficult to remove if you decide to change your landscaping. It is best to only use gravel in areas where your plantings are permanent.

Gravel can be purchased from mulch suppliers, many of whom can be found on line. Bulk gravel , the white gravel often seen under trees or at commercial buildings, is available by the truckload or can be purchased by the bag at your local home improvement store. If a large quantity of either white or grey gravel is desired, it may be wise to also contact your local stone dealer for pricing.

Decorative gravel is a term used to encompass different types of inorganic mulch. Granite is one type of inorganic mulch that comes in a variety of different colors. Granite is crushed to create different colors of landscape coverings such as ruby red granite, orange granite, black and pewter granite. Stone companies, many of which have an on line presence, have a wide selection of granite based groundcovers. Granite dealers may also sell quartzite, made from rock rich in quartz such as limestone and granite. Quartzite comes in vivid colors such as carmel and wintergreen. Over twenty different colors of granite based landscape mulch are available.

Pebbles, brick chips and lava rocks are also used as inorganic mulch. Brick chips are very attractive as ground cover when used with brick paving stones to create garden pathways. Lava rocks come in a variety of sizes and can be found in red and black and golden colors. Pebbles come in a variety of colors and sizes and can be purchased in bulk or in bags to decorate smaller areas.

Black landscaping material is also considered an inorganic mulch. Normally landscaping material is not used by itself but rather as a base for organic mulch or landscaping stone. Landscape fabric is not attractive by itself and it normally needs to be weighted down by stones or fastened to the ground where it is used. Landscape material is porous, thus allowing water and nutrients to seep into the soil. Its' main purpose is to prevent weed growth. Landscape material is easier than gravel to move if you decide to change your landscape design. It can be poked through or cut to allow new plantings. A word of warning, the more you mess with your landscape material the less effective at weed control it becomes. A small hole cut for planting a new hosta can suddenly become a huge rip in your landscape material, especially if you have pets or other wildlife in your garden. It is best to use landscape material on finished gardens or under foundation plantings.

Black plastic was used for a long time as landscape fabric. Plastic is not permeable so water nor nutrients reach the ground where plastic is used. Most garden resources no longer recommended the use of black plastic in landscaping.

The most exciting news in inorganic mulch are the recycled rubber alternatives that are relatively new to the market and are becoming increasing available. Rubber mulch allows drainage, retains moisture and provides insulation for you garden. Permalife Landscape Mulch sells its rubber mulch with its' polyurethane/ acrylic coating in six different colors ranging from a natural looking "Boston Brown' to a tropical feeling blue. This mulch does not promote or sustain fungus, is non toxic and does not stain. In fact Permalife offers a five year replacement warranty on the mulch it sells. Other companies also sell similar products and one, RubberStuff Landscape Mulch ,can be found at select Home Depot stores. Many mulch companies do sell recycled rubber mulch but it is a special order product. Most companies selling recycled rubber mulch will provide samples on request.

Inorganic mulch is perfect under foundation plantings or in areas where you do not anticipate changing your landscaping. While these products do not improve the soil, they do provide all of the other benefits of mulching. Most inorganic mulches will allow liquid fertilizers to seep into the ground thus keeping your plants healthy. While utilizing inorganic mulches seems to go against the earthy nature of most gardeners, there are times when it should be considered and utilized. It does not need to be replaced as frequently as organic mulch and for the gardener who is short on time it may be the solution to keeping a garden well tended and attractive. Inorganic mulch is not for everyone, but with new products coming out everyday, it may soon be found in more gardens then it used to be.

Growing Perennials in the USA

TIPS FOR GROWING PERENNIALS

Herbaceous perennials generally survive well for three or more growing seasons, with the tops usually dying back to the ground in the autumn. The plant's crown and roots resume new growth in the next spring season. A few perennials are evergreen, retaining a green rosette of leaves at the base of the plant during the winter.

Hardy perennials can live through the winter without protection. Many plants like cannas and dahlias are hardy perennials in South Carolina and elsewhere in the south, and will not live through the winter outdoors farther to the north. On the other hand, many of the perennials that grow well in the Northeast United States or England will not tolerate hot, humid summers. Since books about perennials are often written for cooler climates, it is important to good information in selecting plants that are adapted specifically to Southern heat and humidity. Check with your garden store to be sure about your selections.


ORNAMENTATION IN THE GARDEN
Perennials provide color and decor for your landscape all year with endless variations in colors, sizes, and blooming times. Although some perennials flower for only a few weeks at a time, the changing displays form excitement of variation for your perennial garden. Many perennials will bloom again in the warm climate of the south. Some perennials, such as ferns and hostas, are grown specifically for their beautiful foliage. Foliage plants lengthen the season for color and texture in gardening.


THE LANDSCAPE

While the traditional English perennial plant border was entirely herbaceous perennials, they can be attractively used with other plants in the total landscape for variety of color and texture. Perennials are good ground covers, mixed with annuals, grown in containers, and
used to accent garden areas. There are perennials groomed for full sun or heavy shade, and for almost any type of soil. You should select perennials suited to the inherent growing conditions of their planting space. Select a planting area with good air circulation and good drainage.


TIPS FOR PLANTING PERENNIALS

Good soil preparation is vital to perennials, since they may be in place for several years. Deeply spade the beds to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Enhance clay soils by mixing in at least 2 inches of pine bark humus, compost, leaf mold, or small pea gravel in well to improve drainage and aeration. Improve water retention in sandy soils by mixing in 2 to 3 inches of pine bark humus, composted leaf mold, or peat moss. Good soil drainage is essential to the success of most perennials and raised flowerbeds will ensure adequate drainage.

Base your fertilizer and lime applications on the results of a good soil test. In the absence of a soil test, add a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet of flowerbed area or a complete slow release fertilizer, following the label directions.
A pH of 6.0 to 6.5 is goods. Most southern soils are acidic and require the addition of lime to correct pH. Check your soils with a soil test in the north. Incorporate lime and fertilizer, as needed, into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil after mixing in the soil boosters. Then rake the soil surface until smooth.

Most perennials are planted in the autumn or early spring. Fall planting gives the plant more time to establish itself before the start of active spring growth. Perennials planted in the fall are well established before hot weather. Fall planting should be finished at least 6 weeks before hard-freezing weather occurs. Early spring, after soils is well thawed, is a good time to plant perennials. Many perennials grow from seed, but many gardeners prefer to established plants. Perennials are available grown in containers, field-grown, or shipped with bare roots and still dormant.

If plants are somewhat pot bound at planting time, loosen the roots around the bottom and sides of the root ball and spread them out in the bottom of the planting hole. To encourage side root growth, make the hole twice as wide as it is deep. Place the plant, fill the hole, firming the soil in around the plant to remove air pockets. Be sure the crown of the plant is flush with the soil surface.


WATERING
Water plants by allowing them to settle first after planting. Pay attention to watering the first few weeks while plants develop root systems and become established. Adequate moisture is essential for perennials. Most perennials require at least 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water weekly from rain or irrigation. More is needed during hot weather. To promote deep root growth, water thoroughly and allow the soil surface to dry before watering again. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation are ideal. They save water and avoid soaking leaves and flowers. To retain moisture, mulch with a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost, pine bark or pine straw; and avoid heavy mulching.


MAINTENANCE
Weed control should be done by hand. Follow label directions before using any herbicides. Fertilization should be based on the results of a soil test. In the absence of a soil test, apply a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 at the rate of 1 to 2 pounds per 100 square feet of bed area just before new shoots emerge in the early spring. Avoid touching emerging leaves with fertilizer to avoid damage. Several types of perennials will not bloom the first year; and a few, such as peonies, take several years to bloom fully.

Many perennials need to be staked to prevent them from bending during wind and rain. When staking is done correctly, the plants grow to cover the stakes. Remove old flowers to encourage rebloom on perennials. Many perennials must be cut back to ground level after bloom is finished to encourage new leaf growth from the base. Remove dead foliage and stems in the fall, and mulch to protect crowns and roots from mild and freezing weather variations.

Most perennials become overcrowded and require division and thinning. Many perennials are easily propagated in this way. Other methods of propagating perennials include stem cuttings, root cuttings, and seeding.


PERENNIALS FOR SPECIFIC GARDEN USES
Many perennials are available in several different cultivars of various colors, heights, blooms timings, and blooming potentials form small to large flowers. For example, heat resistant and humidity tolerant cultivars like lambs ears are better suited to southern climates in the US than to the northern states. Be sure to consult with a local garden center in your community for perennial cultivars that are especially suited to your region, according to soil type, weather, seasons, and other natural considerations.

Below are listed several of the perennial plants that are useful for special purposes. Your experience with the plants may vary somewhat across the USA. Of course, this list is not all inclusive, but does include plants that should work well. Use it as a guide and then experiment a little. The Latin name and a common name are given for most of these following perennial listings. Check with your garden center on your final selections in order to gather more information and planting guidelines.


Perennials Successful in Sunny, Dry Areas
Achilles Achillea or Yarrow
Anthemis tinctoria Golden Marguerite
Arabis caucasica Rock Cress
Armeria maritime Common or Sea Thrift
Artemisia Artemesia
Asclepias tuberosa Butterfly Weed
Catananche caerulea Cupid's Dart
Coreopsis Coreopsis
Echinops ritro Small Globe Thistle
Euphorbia Spurge
Gaillardia Blanket Flower
Helianthus x multiflorus Perennial Sunflower
Hemerocallis hybrids Daylily
Lavandula angustifolia English Lavender
Liatris Gayfeather
Malva alcea Hollyhock Mallow
Oenothera Sundrops
Opuntia humifusa Prickly Pear Cactus
Perovskia atriplicifolia Russian Sage
Polygonum cuspidatum var. compactum Fleeceflower
Rudbeckia Blackeyed Susan
Sedum Autumn Joy, Showy Stonecrop, Live Forever
Sempervivum tectorum Hens and Chickens
Stachys byzantina Lamb's Ear
Yucca filimentosa Yucca

Perennials Successful in Poor or Sandy Soils
Achillea species Yarrow
Anthemis tinctoria Golden Marguerite
Asclepias tuberosa Butterfly Weed
Baptisia species Wild Indigo
Belamcanda chinensis Blackberry Lily
Euphorbia species Spurge
Gaillardia species Blanket Flower
Gaura lindheimerii Gaura
Hemerocallis species Daylily
Hesperaloe parviflora False Red Yucca
Lantana species Lantana
Plumbago auriculata Plumbago
Salvia greggi Texas Sage
Setcrasea pallida Purple Heart
Yucca species Yucca

Perennials Successful in Moist to Wet Areas
Aruncus dioicus Goat's Beard
Astilbe x arendsii Astilbe
Campanula glomerata Clustered Bellflower
Cimicifuga racemosa Black Snakeroot
Dicentra Bleeding Heart
Houttuynia cordata Variegata, Houttuynia
Iris ensata Japanese Iris
Ligularia Ligularia
Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower
Lysimachia clethroides Gooseneck Loosestrife
Lysimachia punctata Yellow Loosestrife
Matteuccia pensylvanica Ostrich fern
Physostegia virginiana Obedient Plant
Rodgersia pinnata Featherleaf, Rodgersflower
Tradescantia x andersoniana Virginia Spiderwort
Trollis europaeus Globeflower

Perennials Successful in Full Shade
Ajuga reptans Bugleweed
Arum italicum Pictum, Painted Arum
Asarum Wild Gingers
Convallaria majalis Lily of the Valley
Dodecatheon media Common Shooting Star
Galium odoratum Sweet Woodruff
Helleborus orientalis Lenten Rose
Hosta Hosta
Lamium maculatum Spotted Deadnettle
Liriope spicata Creeping Lilyturf
Mertensia virginica Virginia Bluebells
Osmunda regalis Royal Fern
Polygonatum biflorum Small Solomon's Seal
Polygonatum commutatum Great Solomon's Seal
Pulmonaria angustifolia Blue Lungwort
Pulmonaria saccharata Bethlehem Sage
Tiarella cordifolia Foam Flower
Tradescantia x andersoniana Virginia Spiderwort
Viola odorata Sweet Violet

Perennials Successful in Partial ShadeAlchemilla mollis Lady's Mantle
Anemone x hybrida Japanese Anemone
Aquilegia Columbine
Astilbe Astilbe
Bergenia cordifolia Heartleaf Bergenia
Brunnera macrophylla Siberian Bugloss
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides Plumbago
Dicentra Bleeding Heart
Doronicum cordatum Leopardsbane
Geranium Cranesbill, Hardy Geranium
Heuchera sanguinea Coralbells
Myosotis sylvatica Garden Forgetmenot
Tricyrtis hirta Toadlily

Perennials Good for a Long Blooming Season
Achillea Moonshine Yarrow
Asclepias tuberose Butterfly Weed
Coreopsis lanceolata Coreopsis
Coreopsis verticillata Moonbeam
Dicentra eximia Fringed Bleeding Heart
Echinacea purpurea Purple Coneflower
Gaillardia x grandiflora Blanket Flower
Rudbeckia fulgida Goldsturm Blackeyed Susan
Salvia x superba Perennial Salvia
Scabiosa Pincushion Flower
Sedum Autumn Joy, Showy Stonecrop, Live-Forever
Veronica spicata Sunny Border Blue, Spike Speedwell

Perennials that Produce Fragrant FlowersArabis caucasica Rock Cress
Convallaria majalis Lily of the Valley
Dianthus plumarius Cottage Pinks
Dictamnus albus Gas Plant
Hosta plantaginea Fragrant Plantain Lily
Iris hybrids Iris
Lavandula angustifolia English Lavender
Paeonia lactiflora Peony
Viola odorata Sweet Violet

Perennials that Produce Flowers Good for CuttingAchillea Achillea or Yarrow
Aconitum napellus Garden Monkshood
Alchemilla mollis Lady's Mantle
Anemone x hybrida Japanese Anemone
Aquilegia Columbine
Armeria maritima Common or Sea Thrift
Astrantia major Great Masterwort
Campanula persicifolia Peachleaf Bellflower
Chrysanthemum x superbum Shasta Daisy
Convallaria majalus Lily of the Valley
Coreopsis Coreopsis
Delphinium elatum Delphinium or Larkspur
Dicentra Bleeding Heart
Echinacea purpurea Purple Coneflower
Echinops ritro Small Globe Thistle
Gaillardia Blanket Flower
Gypsophilia paniculata Baby's Breath
Heliopsis helianthoides Sunflower Heliopsis
Heuchera sanguinea Coralbells
Lavandula angustifolia English Lavender
Liatris Gayfeather
Lilium Hardy Lilies
Lupinus Russel Hybrid Lupine
Paeonia hybrids Peony
Penstemon Beardtongue
Platycodon grandiflorus Balloon Flower
Rudbeckia Blackeyed Susan
Scabiosa Pincushion Flower
Stokesia laevis Stokes Aster
Veronica spicata Spike Speedwell

Perennials Ideal for Dried Flower or Fruit ArrangementsAchillea Achillea or Yarrow
Alchemilla mollis Lady's Mantle
Asclepias tuberose Butterfly Weed
Baptisia australis False Indigo
Catananche caerulea Cupid's Dart
Echinops ritro Small Globe Thistle
Gypsophilia paniculata Baby's Breath
Iris siberica Siberian Iris and its seed pod
Lavandula angustifolia English Lavender
Liatris Gayfeather
Limonium latifolium Statice
Papaver orientale Oriental Poppy and its seed pod
Physalis alkekengi Chinese Lantern and its seed pod
Scabiosa Pincushion Flower

Perennials that Attract ButterfliesAchillea Achillea or Yarrow
Armeria maritime Common or Sea Thrift
Aruncus dioicus Goat's Beard
Asclepias tuberose Butterfly Weed
Aubrieta deltoidea False Rock Cress
Chrysanthemum Mums
Coreopsis Coreopsis
Dictamnus albus Gas Plant
Echinacea purpurea Purple Coneflower
Gaillardia Blanket Flower
Lavandula angustifolia English Lavender
Liatris Gayfeather
Monarda didyma Bee Balm
Phlox paniculata Summer Phlox
Rudbeckia Blackeyed Susan
Sedum Autumn Joy, Showy Stonecrop, Live-Forever

Perennials that Attract to Hummingbirds
Alcea rosea Hollyhock
Aquilega Columbine
Asclepias tuberose Butterfly Weed
Dianthus Cottage Pinks
Dicentra Bleeding Heart
Digitalis Foxglove
Hemerocallis Daylily
Heuchera sanguinea Coralbells
Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower
Monarda didyma Bee Balm
Penstemon Beardtongue

Perennials that Attract Other BirdsActea, or Baneberry: Actea rubra with red berries and Actea spicata with white berries
Ligularia clivorum
Lupins
Perennial grasses, genus Panicum: Panicum virgatum


Perennials That Can Be InvasiveAegopodium podagraria Goutweed
Ajuga Bugleweed
Artemisia ludoviciana Western Mugwort
Arundinaria Bamboo
Arundo donax Giant Reed
Bambusa species Clumping Bamboo
Campanula rapunculoides Creeping Bellflower
Chrysanthemum leucanthemum Oxeye Daisy
Coronilla varia Crown Vetch
Cortaderia jubata Purple Pampas Grass
Equisetum hyemale Horsetail
Euphorbia cyparissias Cypress Spurge
Elymus arenarius Blue Lyme Grass
Eupatorium coelestinum Hardy Ageratum
Hemerocallis fulva Common Daylily, Ditch Lily
Houttuynia cordata Chameleon Plant
Imperata cylindrica Japanese Blood Grass
Iris pseudocorus Yellow Iris
Lantana camara Lantana
Lychnis coronaria Rose Campion
Lysimachia Loosestrife
Lythrum salicaria Purple Loosestrife
Miscanthus sinensis Silver Grass, Zebra Grass
Macleaya Plume Poppy
Mentha Mint
Oenothera Evening Primrose
Persicaria virginiana Tovara
Phalaris arundinaceae Ribbon Grass
Phyllostachys Japanese Bamboo
Physostegia virginiana Obedient Plant
Polygonum Knotweed
Tanacetum vulgare Tansy
Vernonia Ironweed