FOREST GARDENING
A forest garden is a garden that is modeled after a natural forest, and forest gardening is a new type of home landscaping for urban as well as rural areas. Forest gardens are very attractive, require little maintenance, and combine human and animal food production with ecology and conservation.
Forest gardens have a diverse collection of plants placed in multiple layers above deep mulching. The collection of plants produces flowers, food, and other products for human use. They live together along with insects and other animals that inhabit them, in an ecosystem in your yard.
The hobby of forest gardening was named by Robert Hart in Shropshire, England; but native peoples across the tropics have long created forest gardens. These "tropical home gardens" have includes a diversity of crops that are also arranged in multiple layers to mimic the structure and ecological conditions and functions of the surrounding local forests.
Robert Hart and others applied the same layering and mimicking principles to gardens modeled after deciduous forests in more temperate climates. These forest gardens work well in Ohio, because as much as 95% of Ohio was forestland originally, with numerous native plants that grow well. The same is true for other Midwest states.
PLANNING A FOREST GARDEN
Plants inhabit one or several layers in a naturally occurring forest and have a definite order of appearance. There are the high canopy trees, and underneath those, there is what is known as an understory (like a lower story) of shorter trees and pother lants. Under all the trees is a layer of saplings and shrubs, while under that layer, there is another layer of herbaceous plants.
Above the soil of the forest floor are the groundcovers. There are also vines that grow up through all the layers of the forest. The importance of planning a forest garden entails planning vertically. This includes the number of plants that can be stacked into layers in the available space (see suggestions below). A new garden area or landscape will require plans drawn roughly to scale by hand or on your computer. VISIO is a good program for that.
A good forest gardens can also live and grow around trees and shrubbery that already exists, or in part of a forest that is already standing. For small spaces, such as an urban yard, the canopy layer can be eliminated, and the design built around a shorter single tree, perhaps a fruit tree that will produce some food.
Plant layers in a naturally occurring forest do not grow uniformly across an area. Various species live on high slopes and others on flat ground. A forest's actual composition is much different at the edge of a clearing than the center of a wooded area. In a forest garden, we must consider the overall environment and match it with our intended uses of the space and particular plants.
If one corner of a forest garden is poorly drained, that corner should include plants that can tolerate wet roots. A forest garden can be installed to mimic the forest edges, with low growing species to the sunny side and taller plants to the back. Forest gardens can function to screen out an unpleasant view or cold winds. Deciduous forest gardens can shade a house in the summer and let the sun in to warm it in the winter season to increase home comfort and reduce utility bills. Appearances are also important. The art and architectural principles of plant grouping, balance, and harmonious design that are covered in basic landscape design books also apply to forest gardens.
Natural forests grow without human intervention and forest gardens eventually do the same. A sheet mulch keeps the plants moist without the need for much more watering, and as it breaks down, it will furnish valuable nutrients needed for plant growth. To increase the fertility of the forest garden ecosystem, nitrogen-fixing plants and plants can be added because they are grown specifically to provide some mulch. Forest gardens also include insect attracting plants to support beneficial insects that can reduce other pest populations without insect sprays and other chemicals.
Perennials are emphasized in forest gardens, because they reduce the need for annual starting and planting of seedlings. Those chores can then be eliminated. Designs may also include bird habitats for birds that spread seeds, provide fertilizer, and eat insects, toads that eat insects, and snakes that eat pests. Like natural forests, forest gardens are, to an extent, self-designing. The gardener may introduce more seeds and plants than will eventually survive. Only those that are well suited to the environmental conditions present in that place at that moment will thrive. In addition, a forest garden is designed to evolve over time. The plants that predominate at the beginning will likely fade away as others grow to take their places.
The plant list below provides a basic starting guideline and suggestions. Any plant that can grow in the surrounds of a forest garden can be included in that garden. This includes ornamental plants and even vegetables. In fact, many cool season vegetables will thrive in the shade and moisture of a forest garden. Summer vegetables can grow in a forest garden in its early years after it is first planted. On the other hand, they can be grown in sheet mulch on the garden's edge later on.
PLANTS FOR MIDWEST FOREST GARDENS
THE CANOPY
Beech
Butternut
Shagbark Hickory
Sugar Maple
White Oak
THE UNDERSTORY
American Persimmon
Apple
Cherry
Cornelian Cherry
Crabapple
Hazelnut
Kentucky Coffee Tree
Paw Paw
Pear
Plum
Serviceberry
Witch Hazel
THE SHRUB LAYER
Blackberry
Currant
Elderberry
False indigo
Gooseberry
Raspberry
Rose
Siberian Pea Shrub
THE HERBACEOUS LAYER
Arugula
Chamomile
Chives
Comfrey
Cornsalad
Dill
Fennel
Garlic
Kale
Lemon balm
Lettuce
Lovage
Mint
New Zealand Spinach
Onion
Parsley
Rhubarb
Salad burnet
Sorrel
Spinach
Stinging Nettle
THE FLOWERING GROUND COVERS
Strawberry
Nasturtium
Violet
THE VINES
Grape
Hardy Kiwi
Hops
Scarlet Runner Bean
Wisteria
PLANTING A FOREST GARDEN
The best time to start a forest garden is in the fall, and trees and shrubs can be planted first. Plant trees and shrubs flush to, or just above ground level, then lay the sheet mulch on top of the ground around the plants. If trees and shrubs are not ready for planting at this time, just lay the sheet mulch and plant later.
The first step in preparing a sheet mulch is to "knock down" all unwanted vegetation. Knocking down is not pulling up or tilling under. You will use a lawn mower, weed whip, bush hog, scythe, pruning shears, or other implements to break off all the undesired plant life at, or just above, your ground level. If you have sod, leave it where it is and lay the sheet mulch atop it. Woody vegetation can be removed for chipping and become a pathway or part of the mulch later on. Thick woody roots will also need to be removed. They can be returned later for wildlife habitats. Otherwise, leave everything to decompose right where it is in order to fertilize your forest garden from the start
If the soil is compressed hard, break it up with a spading fork, a U-bar, or other similar implement. With the spading fork, insert the tines completely and lean on the handle. Break up the soil without turning it over. Now is the time to introduce soil boosters. A soil test will show whether it is necessary to adjust the soil pH with lime to increase its alkalinity or with sulphur to increase its acidity. This is important, so do not skip it. Then add any nutrients in which the soil was shown lacking. An inch or two of compost will add organic matter and nutrients to the soil and is the best general soil addition.
Next, add materials that are nitrogen-rich to draw worms up to help decomposition of the carbon-rich layers going on top. Composted manure is an excellent source, so add about 1 inch. Also use fresh vegetable scraps from home or from local restaruants. All of these enhancers or amendments are to be laid directly on top of the soil, one after the other, and not worked in at all. Just lay them out in layers.
Next in sequence is the light barrier. The object of this is to prevent the germination of weed seeds in the soil and to provide a physical barrier to weeds overall. Two materials good for this are newspaper and sheets of cardboard.
Remove any glossy color pages (metallic inks) from newspapers and remove tape and staples from the cardboard. Any solid total organic material is good, including old cotton clothing and rags. Lay newspaper and cardboard so that their edges overlap. The newspaper should be four sheets up to one half inch thick, depending on how many weeds you think you might get. Around tree trunks and shrubs, tear a section of newspaper or cardboard halfway through, and slide the edges of the tear around the trunk. Tear a second sheet in the same way and place it at right angles on top of the first tear. The light barrier is the key to the success of the sheet mulch, so take care with it. It takes some time to lay it, but it can save hours of weeding. Eventually, the newspaper and cardboard will all break down.
On top of the light barrier, place another layer of nitrogen-rich manure or vegetable scraps. Then lay up to 12 inches of bulk mulch. This mulch will consist of leaves, grass clippings, straw, wood chips, pine needles, branches, or any non-composted rough organic materials. The mulch can be placed in decisive layers, or mixed together. It need not be uniform, and leave some space around tree trunks and the bases of woody shrubs. Otherwise, rodents can come in to live in the mulch and nibble on the tree trunks.
If rodents are a probable problem, cut a slit in a metal can and place it, like a sleeve, around the base of the tree. Two considerations are important for the bulk mulch. One, avoid material that may contain seeds, such as hay and weeds. These materials can be included in a sheet mulch, but they should go beneath the light barrier. Two, creating a balance of carbon-rich browns and nitrogen-rich greens helps the mulch decompose. The ideal ratio of carbon to nitrogen is 30 to 1. Composting books are available, but an easy recipe is to mix fallen leaves with fresh grass clippings. If the crucial C to N balance has not been achieved, the mulch will still break down, but it will take longer. To facilitate this, use compost or manure teas (mixtures) as described below.
On top of the bulk mulch, one can place a final layer of hard mulch to make everything look tidy. This hard mulch could be straw, bark mulch, wood chips, or pine needles.
Allow the sheet mulch to compost for a period of time. If installed in the fall, it will partially break down over the winter. If it has been installed in the spring, it may only be possible to wait a few days or weeks before planting. Trees and larger shrubs should have been planted before the application of the sheet mulch but if not, remove a section of mulch, dig a hole, plant the tree, spread excess soil in the exposed area, and replace the mulch. The same applies to any large herbaceous plants. For transplants, plant with a trowel, a knife, and a bucket of topsoil or compost. With a knife, cut a slit or an X in the light barrier, insert the trowel into the slit, and dig a root pocket. Place the roots into the pocket and fill around them with topsoil or compost.
Return the mulch so the transplant is just sticking up through it. Large seeds, such as beans and squash, can be placed directly in the mulch if it is well decayed, or in slits in the light barrier. Fine seeds like those of carrots and lettuce can germinate on top soil or compost placed in the mulch. Clear the mulch aside from an area and cut holes or slits in the light barrier. Cover with top soil or compost. Sow the seeds and care for them as if they were in a bed in a traditional garden. In future years, plants such as dill and arugula may actually reseed themselves. This can be encouraged by placing a layer of compost around the plants as they begin to drop their seeds. The compost will trap the deeds for a new year and protect them from birds and animals.
MAINTENANCE AND UPKEEP
The upkeep of a forest garden are the same as any other garden, but a well installed a forest garden will care for itself. Trees and shrubs in their first year may need some deep watering. Other plants should be watered when the soil beneath the light barrier dries out, or when the plants show signs of water stress. Deep mulch protects soils from wind and sun, so forest gardens require only occasional watering. Watering should entail a gentle flow from the garden hose, sprinklers, drip irrigation, soaker hoses, a watering wand, or a watering can.
If the sheet mulch is correctly installed, very few weeds will appear. Those few can be pulled and left on top of the mulch to dry, or placed underneath to rot.
Most nutrients needed in a forest garden will be provided by the decaying mulch. If a soil test reveals the need for specific nutrients, provide those at the time of the initial sheet mulching. Especially in its first year, a forest garden mulch may entrap nitrogen from the soil in its own process of decomposition.
The most important form of fertilization is to provide nitrogen to help the decomposition of the mulch and release nutrients to plants. The best way to provide this nitrogen is in liquid form as a "tea". This can be done by preparing a manure or compost tea and many recipes exist, requiring various levels of equipment and knowledge. A simple recipe is to fill a bucket or trashcan two-thirds full of manure or compost. Fill the container with water to a few inches below the edge. Cover with a sheet of plastic, tie it around the rim, and leave in the sun. Stir every day or two until the contents are smelly and bubbly - this should take about a week. Strain out the liquid, dilute at a concentration of 1 to 10, and water the whole garden with it. Plants in a forest garden can also be fertilized with a leaf application fertilizer.
Mulching is the most important single maintenance task and reduces the need for the watering, weeding, and fertilizing. This is even more important if your climate tends to be dry.
Any bare spots that appear in the mulch should be covered up with fresh material. If a large number of weeds breaks through in one area, remove the bulk mulch, add an additional layer of light barrier over the entire area, and replace the bulk mulch. If you are growing nitrogen fixing or mulch crops (Siberian pea shrub, comfrey), these can be cut back occasionally and either incorporated into a compost tea, or spread on the mulch surface to add nutrients. At the end of the season, spread several inches of leaves or other mulch material over the entire garden, and leave it to break down over the winter.
As a forest garden includes many perennial plants, clean up at the end of the season can be less of a task than in annual flower and vegetable gardens. Rather than pulling plants up, cut them off at ground level, which disturbs the soil less. The tops of the plants can then be incorporated into the mulch, or set aside for compost.
Planted forest gardens need dedicated human efforts in their beginning stages, but they can care for themselves for years after they develop into independent ecosystems. Forest gardens can provide food, flowers, and homes of wildlife, wind protection, cooling, and aesthetic pleasure in a variety of Midwest landscapes.
Wednesday, December 27, 2006
Monday, December 25, 2006
Create a Garden Scrapbook
Having a scrapbook of your garden allows the gardener to keep a record of both his gardening successes and failures. Whether your garden is still blooming or dormant, this is a great time to begin a scrapbook or notebook that will serve as a history of your gardens most beautiful moments and most spectacular disasters.
I use a three ring binder that will hold both photo pages and personal notes concerning my efforts in the garden. I do not create scrapbook pages for my pictures since I use my book more as a gardening record than a memory book. This is not to say you could not create a working history of your garden that is both informative and decorative. If you do choose to take the more creative path and create a decorative garden scrapbook, just remember to wash the garden dirt from your hands before searching through your notes as to whether impatients thrive in the back yard or slowly wilt and die.
Scrapbooking is huge right now and a visit to your local craft store will present you with numerous possibilities for creating a scrapbook. Stickers add a surprising element to scrapbook pages. They can be bought individually at specialty stores or you can look for packs of stickers that can be adapted to a gardening theme. Even children's or teacher stickers can be used to put a " wow" or "You go girl" on the page containing your best roses or homegrown tomatoes. If pressing flowers interests you, this scrapbook may be the best place to press and store your favorite flower each year. Your scrapbook will remind you of your garden even when the snow is falling outside. That can be quite a pick me up when winter seems to drag on forever.
Pictures are a must. Photos of your garden in bloom not only remind you of the beauty you created last year but give you visual evidence that yes, you really did plant a perennial there last year and it is not blooming as expected. Photos remind you where bulbs are planted and what color they are. While we all think we will remember where our bulbs are planted, without documentation or physical markers in the ground, it is very easy to forget where flowers are planted. Photos allow you to rely on more than just your memory when you suspect your garden is not as lush as last season. They also serve to remind you that your garden was never as lush as you thought it was, and yes you did forget to increase your plantings this fall. An accurate record can prevent a gardener from dividing bulbs or perennials prematurely or buying duplicates of plants that already live but have not yet bloomed.
I also use the photo pages to keep the plastic plant markers that come in store bought plants. I then know I have an accurate record of exactly what plant I bought the year before and how it grew in my garden. I even keep markers of plants I have tried in other gardens to remind myself what type of experience I had with that plant and whether I should be seduced by its' beauty again. It serves to remind me that the picture I see in the gardening book or on line is not always an accurate representation of what the plant looks like in real life. If I find a plant attractive on line or in a book, I check to see if I have found the same plant attractive before. Often I have and my scrapbook prevents me from wasting money on plants that to not live up to their pictures.
Notes are an important part of my record keeping. I record what type of plants thrive and which have been tossed in the waste heap. I note the success of garden products and remind myself of the products that were a waste of money. I note where my herbs have grown well and where they have merely limped along. I also keep a copy of my garden plan. I rough out where my perennials are planted and insert a garden plan in my scrapbook. I compare this plan with my garden's actual performance and become aware of problems early in the season. My notes as to whether my garden blooms in a timely manner or if my plants are blooming irregularly has prevented me from planting annuals on top of late blooming perennials and reminded me to buy annuals for areas where my bulbs have bloomed before their time. My bleeding heart plants were attractive until July last season. This was unusual and required my impatients to make their home in pots for May and June. My notes will help me remember this when fundraising flower sales comes around in late April.
My garden is a work in progress and constantly changes. I keep old garden plans in the back of my book along with information and markers of plants that I am currently not interested in. I also use that trusty three hole punch to include computer print outs in my garden book. I then know I have accurate information concerning gardening issues I have researched. I can then begin my research in my own garden book and start from scratch only when I need to update my information or research new topics. I have never really figured out where these pages belong, so sometimes they are located behind the applicable garden plan and sometimes they just get stuffed in the back of the book. I am sure you will do what works for you.
A working notebook or a creative scrapbook, either create a memory and important notes concerning your time in the garden. Digital cameras and computers allow the gardener to create a scrapbook in a computer file. It may be a little difficult to add pressed flowers, but you only need to worry about keeping the keyboard clean. Each method has its' own appeal, and will work for different gardeners. Whatever method you use, keeping notes on what works and what does not allows a gardener to spend her gardening time more effectively. The pictures of your garden in full bloom are also a pleasant reminder of why you spend time gardening at all.
I use a three ring binder that will hold both photo pages and personal notes concerning my efforts in the garden. I do not create scrapbook pages for my pictures since I use my book more as a gardening record than a memory book. This is not to say you could not create a working history of your garden that is both informative and decorative. If you do choose to take the more creative path and create a decorative garden scrapbook, just remember to wash the garden dirt from your hands before searching through your notes as to whether impatients thrive in the back yard or slowly wilt and die.
Scrapbooking is huge right now and a visit to your local craft store will present you with numerous possibilities for creating a scrapbook. Stickers add a surprising element to scrapbook pages. They can be bought individually at specialty stores or you can look for packs of stickers that can be adapted to a gardening theme. Even children's or teacher stickers can be used to put a " wow" or "You go girl" on the page containing your best roses or homegrown tomatoes. If pressing flowers interests you, this scrapbook may be the best place to press and store your favorite flower each year. Your scrapbook will remind you of your garden even when the snow is falling outside. That can be quite a pick me up when winter seems to drag on forever.
Pictures are a must. Photos of your garden in bloom not only remind you of the beauty you created last year but give you visual evidence that yes, you really did plant a perennial there last year and it is not blooming as expected. Photos remind you where bulbs are planted and what color they are. While we all think we will remember where our bulbs are planted, without documentation or physical markers in the ground, it is very easy to forget where flowers are planted. Photos allow you to rely on more than just your memory when you suspect your garden is not as lush as last season. They also serve to remind you that your garden was never as lush as you thought it was, and yes you did forget to increase your plantings this fall. An accurate record can prevent a gardener from dividing bulbs or perennials prematurely or buying duplicates of plants that already live but have not yet bloomed.
I also use the photo pages to keep the plastic plant markers that come in store bought plants. I then know I have an accurate record of exactly what plant I bought the year before and how it grew in my garden. I even keep markers of plants I have tried in other gardens to remind myself what type of experience I had with that plant and whether I should be seduced by its' beauty again. It serves to remind me that the picture I see in the gardening book or on line is not always an accurate representation of what the plant looks like in real life. If I find a plant attractive on line or in a book, I check to see if I have found the same plant attractive before. Often I have and my scrapbook prevents me from wasting money on plants that to not live up to their pictures.
Notes are an important part of my record keeping. I record what type of plants thrive and which have been tossed in the waste heap. I note the success of garden products and remind myself of the products that were a waste of money. I note where my herbs have grown well and where they have merely limped along. I also keep a copy of my garden plan. I rough out where my perennials are planted and insert a garden plan in my scrapbook. I compare this plan with my garden's actual performance and become aware of problems early in the season. My notes as to whether my garden blooms in a timely manner or if my plants are blooming irregularly has prevented me from planting annuals on top of late blooming perennials and reminded me to buy annuals for areas where my bulbs have bloomed before their time. My bleeding heart plants were attractive until July last season. This was unusual and required my impatients to make their home in pots for May and June. My notes will help me remember this when fundraising flower sales comes around in late April.
My garden is a work in progress and constantly changes. I keep old garden plans in the back of my book along with information and markers of plants that I am currently not interested in. I also use that trusty three hole punch to include computer print outs in my garden book. I then know I have accurate information concerning gardening issues I have researched. I can then begin my research in my own garden book and start from scratch only when I need to update my information or research new topics. I have never really figured out where these pages belong, so sometimes they are located behind the applicable garden plan and sometimes they just get stuffed in the back of the book. I am sure you will do what works for you.
A working notebook or a creative scrapbook, either create a memory and important notes concerning your time in the garden. Digital cameras and computers allow the gardener to create a scrapbook in a computer file. It may be a little difficult to add pressed flowers, but you only need to worry about keeping the keyboard clean. Each method has its' own appeal, and will work for different gardeners. Whatever method you use, keeping notes on what works and what does not allows a gardener to spend her gardening time more effectively. The pictures of your garden in full bloom are also a pleasant reminder of why you spend time gardening at all.
Monday, December 18, 2006
Easy First Steps to Winterizing Your Garden
Now is the time to get your garden ready for next spring. If you live in a warmer climate, then you still have time to plant a few bulbs for next spring, but you need to act fast. Tulips and daffodils are probably the most popular bulbs and are fairly easy to care for. To see whether or not you are too late, you should go out with a shovel and try to dig into the ground. If you can dig fairly easily, then get thee to a garden store and pick out some bulbs! These bulbs are annuals, which means they will bloom for one season and then be gone. You should keep that in mind when you are considering their price.
Your next step will be to make sure that your yard is raked. Now, some people just allow their leaves to sit in the yard all winter. If you only have a couple of trees, that may be fine. The leaves will decompose where they are. If you have tons of trees, however, then you could be in for some serious problems if you leave them all winter. Dead leaves that build up are a great breeding ground for bugs. They also can contribute to diseases in your lawn. If you happen to be very busy and do not get to the leaves before the snow begins, then you should be prepared now to get lawn fertilizer next spring to bring back your grass.
Your third task will be to check out the plants you had this year. If you had annuals that are now dead, then you should go ahead and get them up. You need to pull up the whole root system so that you can use that ground for something else next year. Remove any perennials (flowers that come up year after year) that are not surviving in your yard and clear away any dead brush from trees. Now also it the time to clipper or prune any bushes that you have. Pruning some bushes, such as azaleas, may mean that they will not bloom next year. That is okay if you are planning to keep the bushes for years to come. Go the year without the blooms and then keep up on the pruning! After a year, they should be full and healthy again.
Do not forget about your yard equipment when you are winterizing your garden. Weed eaters, trimmers, lawn mowers, and other gardening tools do not do well with the winter weather. The best place to put the motorized equipment is inside. If you do not have a garage or other place to put them, purchase a large tarp and some bungee cords. Cover them well so that they will not be exposed to the precipitation and cold of the winter. Patio furniture also should be taken in or put under tarps to survive the winter. The fabric on most patio chairs will not make it through the winter. It will get brittle and crack, so take precautions now.
For those of you who do not have a compost bin already, consider building one now. It takes at least a year for a compost bin to be usable as fertilizer, so you will not be able to use it next year. Still you will be getting started on a healthier yard. Get small wiring (such as chicken wire) and a few metal poles. Stake the poles in the ground, wrap the wire around it, and you have a basic compost bin. You can put any of your yard clippings (though you may want to chop up limbs first) as well as vegetable scraps, eggs shells, and other garbage from your kitchen in the compost bin. Be sure that you cover it for the winter but come by to turn it with a pitchfork every month or so.
These basics steps will help you get your garden ready for next spring. The key is to make sure that you take care of everything now so that you can begin next year fresh. You will not need to start out doing clean-up, but you can start the spring with the projects you want to do.
Your next step will be to make sure that your yard is raked. Now, some people just allow their leaves to sit in the yard all winter. If you only have a couple of trees, that may be fine. The leaves will decompose where they are. If you have tons of trees, however, then you could be in for some serious problems if you leave them all winter. Dead leaves that build up are a great breeding ground for bugs. They also can contribute to diseases in your lawn. If you happen to be very busy and do not get to the leaves before the snow begins, then you should be prepared now to get lawn fertilizer next spring to bring back your grass.
Your third task will be to check out the plants you had this year. If you had annuals that are now dead, then you should go ahead and get them up. You need to pull up the whole root system so that you can use that ground for something else next year. Remove any perennials (flowers that come up year after year) that are not surviving in your yard and clear away any dead brush from trees. Now also it the time to clipper or prune any bushes that you have. Pruning some bushes, such as azaleas, may mean that they will not bloom next year. That is okay if you are planning to keep the bushes for years to come. Go the year without the blooms and then keep up on the pruning! After a year, they should be full and healthy again.
Do not forget about your yard equipment when you are winterizing your garden. Weed eaters, trimmers, lawn mowers, and other gardening tools do not do well with the winter weather. The best place to put the motorized equipment is inside. If you do not have a garage or other place to put them, purchase a large tarp and some bungee cords. Cover them well so that they will not be exposed to the precipitation and cold of the winter. Patio furniture also should be taken in or put under tarps to survive the winter. The fabric on most patio chairs will not make it through the winter. It will get brittle and crack, so take precautions now.
For those of you who do not have a compost bin already, consider building one now. It takes at least a year for a compost bin to be usable as fertilizer, so you will not be able to use it next year. Still you will be getting started on a healthier yard. Get small wiring (such as chicken wire) and a few metal poles. Stake the poles in the ground, wrap the wire around it, and you have a basic compost bin. You can put any of your yard clippings (though you may want to chop up limbs first) as well as vegetable scraps, eggs shells, and other garbage from your kitchen in the compost bin. Be sure that you cover it for the winter but come by to turn it with a pitchfork every month or so.
These basics steps will help you get your garden ready for next spring. The key is to make sure that you take care of everything now so that you can begin next year fresh. You will not need to start out doing clean-up, but you can start the spring with the projects you want to do.
A To Do List For Your Garden
If you are like me, then you find yourself often thinking about the time ahead. It may be months or years ahead, but you have a vision for how things will be at one point in the future. Since my husband and I purchased our first home last August, we have been dreaming of the amazing yard that we will have next year.
Last year we had a small vegetable garden. It produced a few fruits but nothing spectacular. Do not get me wrong. I was excited about every tomato and cucumber we picked in our garden, but it was not enough to sustain us. Next year, though, we will be able to make some changes to our yard that will give us a more beautiful garden.
The best way to make sure that you take steps toward realizing your gardening dreams is to start by planning now, when you are probably already cooped up in your home for the winter, for the spring months when you can get out to make it a reality.
Your first step should be taking stock of your yard and garden now. What worked? For us, tomatoes were our best crop last year. We did little to them, and they yielded the most fruit. We love tomatoes (and hurricanes and other factors keep pushing up their prices), so we will be planting about three times the number of tomato plants next year. We have considered that when we have located where we will place our new garden plot. Perhaps you will be looking for new ideas for what to plant. Now is the time to begin researching. Can asparagus grow in your area? Do you have the space for a small pumpkin patch? Write down your plans so that you can begin pricing seeds and other items needed and looking into what you will have to do for your garden.
Take a walk around your yard. What would you like to see? For example, in our yard, we have a small side porch that is about six feet by 15 feet. While the previous owners planted a few things, they did not complete the task. We probably will not be replanting everything next year, based just on priorities. We can only do so much to our gardens each year, after all. What we do want to do in that area, however, is to wall it off. We have a few stone pieces that will work well to create a border around the porch. Though we will not have a fully planted area, we will be adding the border to that part of the yard next year. When you are planning projects, be sure that you take these types of things into account. Consider non-plant garden projects.
Speaking of non-planting projects, think about garden decorations. Our son picked out some shimmering garden ornaments last year. They were appealing to his one-year-old senses, so we got them. We have three put in a dogwood behind our house. For next year, we will begin to think of other fun stuff to decorate the garden. Perhaps we want to buy (or make) small stone steps to make it to the garden from the deck. We may get a garden flag or little markers to tell us what is in the yard at various points. If you want to make any of your garden decorations, that is something you can work on now while it is still winter.
Making steppingstones, for example, is not difficult. You need simply to search for how to make them online and then check into the various methods. With some methods, you can make the stones for as little as $3-4 each, and you can do them over the course of a day. This craft may be a great way to get your children involved in a fun activity while they are indoors during the cold winter months.
Whatever you decide to do, know that you should begin preparing for next spring today so that you will not be taken by surprise. If you begin purchasing items now and researching the basics, you will find that you will be excited and well-prepared when the spring air finally blows in.
Last year we had a small vegetable garden. It produced a few fruits but nothing spectacular. Do not get me wrong. I was excited about every tomato and cucumber we picked in our garden, but it was not enough to sustain us. Next year, though, we will be able to make some changes to our yard that will give us a more beautiful garden.
The best way to make sure that you take steps toward realizing your gardening dreams is to start by planning now, when you are probably already cooped up in your home for the winter, for the spring months when you can get out to make it a reality.
Your first step should be taking stock of your yard and garden now. What worked? For us, tomatoes were our best crop last year. We did little to them, and they yielded the most fruit. We love tomatoes (and hurricanes and other factors keep pushing up their prices), so we will be planting about three times the number of tomato plants next year. We have considered that when we have located where we will place our new garden plot. Perhaps you will be looking for new ideas for what to plant. Now is the time to begin researching. Can asparagus grow in your area? Do you have the space for a small pumpkin patch? Write down your plans so that you can begin pricing seeds and other items needed and looking into what you will have to do for your garden.
Take a walk around your yard. What would you like to see? For example, in our yard, we have a small side porch that is about six feet by 15 feet. While the previous owners planted a few things, they did not complete the task. We probably will not be replanting everything next year, based just on priorities. We can only do so much to our gardens each year, after all. What we do want to do in that area, however, is to wall it off. We have a few stone pieces that will work well to create a border around the porch. Though we will not have a fully planted area, we will be adding the border to that part of the yard next year. When you are planning projects, be sure that you take these types of things into account. Consider non-plant garden projects.
Speaking of non-planting projects, think about garden decorations. Our son picked out some shimmering garden ornaments last year. They were appealing to his one-year-old senses, so we got them. We have three put in a dogwood behind our house. For next year, we will begin to think of other fun stuff to decorate the garden. Perhaps we want to buy (or make) small stone steps to make it to the garden from the deck. We may get a garden flag or little markers to tell us what is in the yard at various points. If you want to make any of your garden decorations, that is something you can work on now while it is still winter.
Making steppingstones, for example, is not difficult. You need simply to search for how to make them online and then check into the various methods. With some methods, you can make the stones for as little as $3-4 each, and you can do them over the course of a day. This craft may be a great way to get your children involved in a fun activity while they are indoors during the cold winter months.
Whatever you decide to do, know that you should begin preparing for next spring today so that you will not be taken by surprise. If you begin purchasing items now and researching the basics, you will find that you will be excited and well-prepared when the spring air finally blows in.
How Poinsettias and Other Plants Became Christmas Staples
When you think of Christmas, you tend to think of different plants that go with this particular holiday, with Easter, it is the Easter lily and with Christmas it is the Christmas tree, the Poinsettia and the Mistletoe, but how did these plants become such a symbol of Christmas?
The Poinsettia was first brought into the United States in 1825 by Joel Robert Poinsett from Mexico where he was serving as the first American ambassador. He stumbled upon the plant growing wild as either a plant or a small bush near Taxco, Mexico and was taken with their beauty. Since he was a botanist to begin with, when he returned to the United States, he brought some with him and then sent several plants to various Botanical gardens throughout the then United States and from there the plant became popular. The poinsettia became associated with Christmas several years later as it was first sold in Philadelphia during the Christmas season. Many years later, around the turn of the century, the Poinsettia as we know it today was born. Botanists named Ecke were situated in California and breed the Poinsettia to be a smaller and more hardier plant. The plant has a storied history and was even known as the Christmas flower by the Aztecs. They made medicine to treat fevers from the latex and dye from the plants. The plant was probably first associated with Christmas in the 17th century, when Franciscan priests working in the Taxco area included poinsettias in their Nativity processions because they were so brightly coloured at this time of year.
Mistletoe is another plant that is associated with Christmas. Mistletoe has been around for centuries, but is known as a parasitic shrub that grows on trees (the root system of the mistletoe entwines that of the tree that is growing on as to extract nutrients from the tree). Kissing under the mistletoe dates back to almost ancient times and was used by Druids for the medicinal properties and is mentioned also in ancient Norse mythology.
The history of the Christmas tree is somewhat better known than perhaps the mistletoe or the poinsettia. The modern tree as we know it today began its roots in Germany several hundreds of years ago during the late 17th and early 18th century and the tree gained popularity throughout Germany. Prince Albert, the husband of Queen Victoria brought the tree to England during the later first half of the 19th century. The earliest known Christmas tree in North American was in Canada in 1781 and displayed by a German immigrant and later, in 1816 the Christmas tree appeared in Lancaster, PA and was put up by a German fellow that had immigrated to the new world (being the first Christmas tree on record in the United States.)
Here are some interesting facts about all three plants: A Christmas tree farm supplies enough oxygen to support eighteen people and of course are havens for both bird and animal alike. Evergreen was used because of the tree staying green all year long (think of the song O Taunenbaum! A definite German Christmas Carol). In many countries it was believed that the Christmas tree could keep away witches and evil spirits.
Mistletoe is the floral state emblem of Oklahoma. Mistletoe is believed to aid high blood pressure and was made popular again recently when Suzanne Somers thought that mistletoe could be a cure for breast cancer and used a drug made from an extract of the mistletoe to treat her recent bout of breast cancer. Correct mistletoe etiquette is for the man to remove one berry when he kisses a girl underneath and when all the berries are gone, well, no more kissing! It is also believed that if a woman is not kissed under the mistletoe, she will remain single for another year. There are more than thirteen hundred species of mistletoe world wide, but only two that are native to the United States.
In nature, left unattended a Poinsettia can grow up to ten feet tall! The sales of Poinsettias represent over eighty percent of potted plants sales during the holiday season and usually bringing in almost two million in sales! In the United States, December 12th is National Poinsettia Day. There are over one hundred varieties of poinsettias. There is even a college football game named after this flower!
So now you know a little bit more of the history of these annual Christmas plants and a few fun facts to quiz your friends with! Merry Christmas!
The Poinsettia was first brought into the United States in 1825 by Joel Robert Poinsett from Mexico where he was serving as the first American ambassador. He stumbled upon the plant growing wild as either a plant or a small bush near Taxco, Mexico and was taken with their beauty. Since he was a botanist to begin with, when he returned to the United States, he brought some with him and then sent several plants to various Botanical gardens throughout the then United States and from there the plant became popular. The poinsettia became associated with Christmas several years later as it was first sold in Philadelphia during the Christmas season. Many years later, around the turn of the century, the Poinsettia as we know it today was born. Botanists named Ecke were situated in California and breed the Poinsettia to be a smaller and more hardier plant. The plant has a storied history and was even known as the Christmas flower by the Aztecs. They made medicine to treat fevers from the latex and dye from the plants. The plant was probably first associated with Christmas in the 17th century, when Franciscan priests working in the Taxco area included poinsettias in their Nativity processions because they were so brightly coloured at this time of year.
Mistletoe is another plant that is associated with Christmas. Mistletoe has been around for centuries, but is known as a parasitic shrub that grows on trees (the root system of the mistletoe entwines that of the tree that is growing on as to extract nutrients from the tree). Kissing under the mistletoe dates back to almost ancient times and was used by Druids for the medicinal properties and is mentioned also in ancient Norse mythology.
The history of the Christmas tree is somewhat better known than perhaps the mistletoe or the poinsettia. The modern tree as we know it today began its roots in Germany several hundreds of years ago during the late 17th and early 18th century and the tree gained popularity throughout Germany. Prince Albert, the husband of Queen Victoria brought the tree to England during the later first half of the 19th century. The earliest known Christmas tree in North American was in Canada in 1781 and displayed by a German immigrant and later, in 1816 the Christmas tree appeared in Lancaster, PA and was put up by a German fellow that had immigrated to the new world (being the first Christmas tree on record in the United States.)
Here are some interesting facts about all three plants: A Christmas tree farm supplies enough oxygen to support eighteen people and of course are havens for both bird and animal alike. Evergreen was used because of the tree staying green all year long (think of the song O Taunenbaum! A definite German Christmas Carol). In many countries it was believed that the Christmas tree could keep away witches and evil spirits.
Mistletoe is the floral state emblem of Oklahoma. Mistletoe is believed to aid high blood pressure and was made popular again recently when Suzanne Somers thought that mistletoe could be a cure for breast cancer and used a drug made from an extract of the mistletoe to treat her recent bout of breast cancer. Correct mistletoe etiquette is for the man to remove one berry when he kisses a girl underneath and when all the berries are gone, well, no more kissing! It is also believed that if a woman is not kissed under the mistletoe, she will remain single for another year. There are more than thirteen hundred species of mistletoe world wide, but only two that are native to the United States.
In nature, left unattended a Poinsettia can grow up to ten feet tall! The sales of Poinsettias represent over eighty percent of potted plants sales during the holiday season and usually bringing in almost two million in sales! In the United States, December 12th is National Poinsettia Day. There are over one hundred varieties of poinsettias. There is even a college football game named after this flower!
So now you know a little bit more of the history of these annual Christmas plants and a few fun facts to quiz your friends with! Merry Christmas!
Sunday, December 10, 2006
Holiday Gifts for the Gardener
The holidays are approaching and gift giving time is upon us. Do not forget garden gifts for the gardener in your life. While they may not be usable on Christmas day, garden gifts make great presents and will be appreciated when they are unwrapped on a snowy Christmas morning. This is also a reminder to all those gardeners who double as Santa during the holiday season. If you find yourself buying your own Christmas presents and wrapping them for your shopping impaired relatives, do not forget the garden aisle this holiday season.
Seeds make great stocking stuffers. Seed packs may be a little difficult to find this time of year but not totally impossible. Try clearance aisles and specialty shops. While the seed packets may be out of date, they still grow with surprising regularity. An added bonus is they are deeply discounted since they are out of season. I would not be surprised if Santa tosses some seed packs in my stocking this year, just a hunch.
Garden clogs are a wonderful gift. Plastic clogs that can live outside and can be hosed off are paticularly wonderful. The gardener can slip them on when they go outside in all types of weather. The best part is the garden clogs are left on the porch, along with mud and other garden debris. I like the traditional clogs as opposed to the boots, but either type of shoe will be appreciated when spring comes around.
Kneelers are an inexpensive gift that allow the gardener to work their garden bed with comfort. These pads are frequently part of a garden tool set which is always a great gift. If you are buying garden tools as a gift try and buy the best quality tools you can afford. Better quality tools last longer and are easier to use. Inexpensive tools look great, but break with regularity and need to be replaced more frequently. If a hand pruner is part of a garden package ask to actually try it out before purchasing it. If the hand pruner is hard to use in the store, or is uncomfortable in your hand, it is not the right gift for the gardener in your life. Hand pruners are used extensively in gardening and comfort , not to mention cutting quality, becomes an issue.
Gloves are great. A gardener can never have too many gloves. Multiple sets of gloves can also allow the gardener the luxury of throwing gloves away when they are torn or waiting until the mud dries before they clean them. A little luxury, but a luxury none the less.
Yard art is an interesting gift and one the gardener will not often buy herself. I received two plant stakes that were toped by decorative metal ornamentation. I uses them merely as art and not as plant stakes. I love the color and interest they bring to my garden, and I would never have bought them myself.
Lawn ornaments, now known as yard art, are also cute gifts. A clay bunny, or stone angel can add interest to a garden all year round. If you are buying a year round piece of garden ornamentation, make sure it is suitable for year round use in your area. Broken bunnies do not bring Christmas joy.
Indoor plants are always a Christmas favorite, just make sure you have the proper growing conditions. My current abode is a death trap for either starting seeds early or keeping plants alive over the winter. I do not have the light requirements for indoor gardening. Before you buy potted herbs for Christmas, make sure you have a sunny, draft free, windowsill where they will thrive until spring. Dead plants do not create a positive holiday spirit.
Garden books are always a great idea. First check and see if your gardener's favorite "manual" is falling apart. I know my favorite gardening book could fall apart each time I use it. A new edition, especially one that is not falling apart, will be appreciated. If your gardener has expressed an interest in a new area of gardening, a book on the subject will bring holiday smiles. Santa should know a gift card to your local book store is always a good idea for the gardener who wants to explore several new gardening themes and would like to look through the books before purchasing.
A gift card to your local garden center is always a good idea. The gardener in your life can then plan their garden during the upcoming months, with an initial budget in mind. While non gardeners may not see the fun in this activity, gardeners who love to plan will have hours of pleasure in planning, budgeting, and eventually increasing the budget of their spring plant purchases. All gardeners may not be frustrated landscape designers, but for those of us that are, this really is our idea of fun.
A cute gardening outfit is special for those who like to garden in style. If the gardener in your life is concerned about her appearance as she digs in the dirt, you should already know. A simple clue : has she ever asked you if she looks fat in her garden clothes? Santa has also been known to bring plastic wheelbarrows and weed wackers. Not all gardeners are female and these may be the perfect gifts for the male gardener, along with a heavy duty tree pruner. If your gardener is female, you may want to fill the wheelbarrow with lingerie or perfume. Just a suggestion from a female gardener.
The garden is a source of numerous Christmas gifts for your gardener. Remember all the work that goes into creating your beautiful spring and summer landscapes and show the gardener you really do appreciate the effort it takes to create beauty out of dirt.
Seeds make great stocking stuffers. Seed packs may be a little difficult to find this time of year but not totally impossible. Try clearance aisles and specialty shops. While the seed packets may be out of date, they still grow with surprising regularity. An added bonus is they are deeply discounted since they are out of season. I would not be surprised if Santa tosses some seed packs in my stocking this year, just a hunch.
Garden clogs are a wonderful gift. Plastic clogs that can live outside and can be hosed off are paticularly wonderful. The gardener can slip them on when they go outside in all types of weather. The best part is the garden clogs are left on the porch, along with mud and other garden debris. I like the traditional clogs as opposed to the boots, but either type of shoe will be appreciated when spring comes around.
Kneelers are an inexpensive gift that allow the gardener to work their garden bed with comfort. These pads are frequently part of a garden tool set which is always a great gift. If you are buying garden tools as a gift try and buy the best quality tools you can afford. Better quality tools last longer and are easier to use. Inexpensive tools look great, but break with regularity and need to be replaced more frequently. If a hand pruner is part of a garden package ask to actually try it out before purchasing it. If the hand pruner is hard to use in the store, or is uncomfortable in your hand, it is not the right gift for the gardener in your life. Hand pruners are used extensively in gardening and comfort , not to mention cutting quality, becomes an issue.
Gloves are great. A gardener can never have too many gloves. Multiple sets of gloves can also allow the gardener the luxury of throwing gloves away when they are torn or waiting until the mud dries before they clean them. A little luxury, but a luxury none the less.
Yard art is an interesting gift and one the gardener will not often buy herself. I received two plant stakes that were toped by decorative metal ornamentation. I uses them merely as art and not as plant stakes. I love the color and interest they bring to my garden, and I would never have bought them myself.
Lawn ornaments, now known as yard art, are also cute gifts. A clay bunny, or stone angel can add interest to a garden all year round. If you are buying a year round piece of garden ornamentation, make sure it is suitable for year round use in your area. Broken bunnies do not bring Christmas joy.
Indoor plants are always a Christmas favorite, just make sure you have the proper growing conditions. My current abode is a death trap for either starting seeds early or keeping plants alive over the winter. I do not have the light requirements for indoor gardening. Before you buy potted herbs for Christmas, make sure you have a sunny, draft free, windowsill where they will thrive until spring. Dead plants do not create a positive holiday spirit.
Garden books are always a great idea. First check and see if your gardener's favorite "manual" is falling apart. I know my favorite gardening book could fall apart each time I use it. A new edition, especially one that is not falling apart, will be appreciated. If your gardener has expressed an interest in a new area of gardening, a book on the subject will bring holiday smiles. Santa should know a gift card to your local book store is always a good idea for the gardener who wants to explore several new gardening themes and would like to look through the books before purchasing.
A gift card to your local garden center is always a good idea. The gardener in your life can then plan their garden during the upcoming months, with an initial budget in mind. While non gardeners may not see the fun in this activity, gardeners who love to plan will have hours of pleasure in planning, budgeting, and eventually increasing the budget of their spring plant purchases. All gardeners may not be frustrated landscape designers, but for those of us that are, this really is our idea of fun.
A cute gardening outfit is special for those who like to garden in style. If the gardener in your life is concerned about her appearance as she digs in the dirt, you should already know. A simple clue : has she ever asked you if she looks fat in her garden clothes? Santa has also been known to bring plastic wheelbarrows and weed wackers. Not all gardeners are female and these may be the perfect gifts for the male gardener, along with a heavy duty tree pruner. If your gardener is female, you may want to fill the wheelbarrow with lingerie or perfume. Just a suggestion from a female gardener.
The garden is a source of numerous Christmas gifts for your gardener. Remember all the work that goes into creating your beautiful spring and summer landscapes and show the gardener you really do appreciate the effort it takes to create beauty out of dirt.
Thursday, December 07, 2006
Kitchen Gardens
I am watching the snow fall on what remains of my kitchen garden. I failed to harvest most of my herbs this year so I can still see my wilted parsley and sage as the snow quietly blankets what remains of my garden. To combat the winter blahs, I have stared to plan for spring when my herbs will once again grow with wild abandon and I can walk outside to gather the seasonings I need for my cooking creations. Next year my kitchen garden will be bigger and better than ever before.
Kitchen gardens are herb and vegetable beds located outside your kitchen door. A kitchen garden is a functional garden, its' purpose to provide fresh seasonings needed for food preparation. Think of it as an outdoor pantry filled with very fresh oregano, parsley, basil , and lettuce. It is close to the kitchen door so the cook can easily grab a handful of parsley or chives while preparing a meal. Ease of use also translates into ease of maintenance. If your kitchen garden is the first thing you see when walking out your door it is more likely to receive the attention needed to produce a bumper crop of seasonings. Pulling weeds and proactively preventing pests is easier done a little bit at a time on a regular basis. Picking basil and pulling weeds begins to occur simultaneously in a kitchen garden, just remember to use the basil not the weeds in your salad.
All you need to create a kitchen garden is a sunny spot outside your kitchen door. Ideally, a garden bed is best suited to create an outdoor pantry but most herbs and some vegetables can be grown in containers which will serve as adequate substitutes. Even if you have a garden space in which to plant your outdoor pantry, including a few containers will add visual interest to your functional garden and provide the sheltered growing environment for herbs that are particularly susceptible to slug and other insect damage. I built a raised planting box , inspired by a 1960's garden book, that houses my basil plants and shields my air conditioner unit from view. The raised bed prevents most insect damage to my basil plants and allows me to quickly assess if netting or other measures are needed to protect these herbs. I can also harvest my basil while standing in the rain. Most of the other herbs I plant require at least dusty knees and a little more effort. My raised planting box is several feet tall and allows easy access to the herbs I plant in it. Large containers found at your local garden store will serve the same purpose.
Deciding what to plant in your kitchen garden should begin with the herbs and vegetables you use most frequently while cooking. Chives are easy to grow perennials and can be used in a variety of dishes, not to mention as a topping for baked potatoes. Chives can be grown from seed but acquiring a divided clump of an existing chive plant will quickly provide you a more mature plant. Chives' flower and these flowers are edible and attractive. Also worth mentioning are garlic chives, which can also be grown from seed. Garlic chives appear similar to traditional chives but their leaves produce a garlic flavor rather than the slightly onion flavor of traditional chives. Remember to label your chives if more than one type is planted.
Garlic is an option for your kitchen garden. The leaves of the garlic plant can be uses in a similar manner to garlic chives. In fact immature garlic plants will produce a garlic" green onion " that is delicious in cooking. Most gardening sources tell you not to plant the cloves from the garlic purchased at the grocery store. If your garlic cloves have begun to spout , planting these cloves will produce very good garlic" green onions ". Plant the clove with the green sprout reaching for the sun. If you are hoping for full fledged garlic clusters, I would advise following traditional advice, since I have never allowed my garlic plants to reach maturity.
Green onions are tasty additions to any kitchen garden as are cherry tomatoes and lettuce. Most lettuce plants are cool season crops and are best grown early and late in the growing season. Home grown lettuce is delicious but it looks different than what you buy in the store. Loose leaf lettuce is the easiest to grow in your kitchen garden and you will most likely be harvesting individual leaves rather then full heads of lettuce. If your lettuce is bitter it has " bolted" and you should wait for the next cool growing season. I let my lettuce plants continue to grow last season as an experiment and they grow quite tall. The leaves are no longer pleasant to eat but the plants do flower. The plants did not self sow, at least in the fall growing season, I am curious to see what happens in the spring.
I love basil as you may have guessed since it has its' own planter. Basil is difficult to grow from seed though if you have good indoor growing conditions it can be done. While I have grown basil from seed, I find buying basil plants at the garden center produces more productive plants. Basil comes in different varieties but I normally only grow "traditional" basil since I use it to make pesto. I have started adding basil leaves to salads with positive results. I may try a wider variety of basil plants this upcoming season, if my traditional basil plants allow them room in the planter. Basil is a good choice for containers. It needs adequate water and the confined area of a container allows daily watering when other more drought tolerant plants can wait a day or so. Most importantly, the leaves of the basil plant that are so delicious to us in salads and pesto, are also delicious to insects and other garden pests. Containers reduce insect damage. Moreover, while basil plants love the heat of summer, they do survive into fall. Planting basil in containers allows the gardener to protect their plants against early fall freezes. A futile effort unless there is a Indian summer, since basil really needs the strong sun of summer.
Oregano is a must in any kitchen garden. It is a perennial and it will spread. Thyme is a delicious herb and its' tiny leaves are wonderful in Italian cooking. Parsley is easy to grow from seed and is a must in any garden for its' beauty as much as its' culinary purposes. Sage has beautiful foliage and is a worthy addition for ascetic purposes even if you are not really sure what it is used for. Mints come in a variety of flavors but they are invasive and hard to control. The same can be said for cat nip, though I did manage to kill my cat nip plant this season. The cat nip was intentional planted for my cat so its total eradication from my garden was not intentional. I must admit I impressed the garden supply staff with the effectiveness of my control methods. I discovered this while searching for a new cat nip plant for my garden.
A kitchen garden should contain the herbs and vegetables a cook needs. After these plants are established, a gardeners focus can shift to adding plants for beauty, or just to have an extensive herb garden. I was very wary about using anything grown in my own garden for years. I would grow the lettuce, but not eat it. I would serve it to my husband, who loved it, but my personal salad needed to come from the grocery store. I planted different herbs in my garden to create a herb garden, not to use it for cooking. Over time, I quietly began to experiment with the herbs growing in my garden. Dried oregano slowly became replaced by fresh oregano. The same goes for dill and parsley. Then I could no longer find basil at the grocery store, so I grew my own. This year I tried carrots: great cooked, not so good raw. I am trying a different kind next year.
Having a kitchen garden outside your kitchen door also encourages a gardener to actually use their plants in cooking. It is therefore important to label your plants so you do not poison your family. While many of my herbs self sow, if I cannot positively identify them, I treat them like a weed. I am still new to this kitchen garden world and feel the lure of prepackaged grocery store products every day. Until you are confident in your own ability to identify herbs, when in doubt, do without.
Herbs are increasing in popularity not only for their culinary uses but also for their beauty. Numerous gardening and landscape sources are suggesting herbs as decorative plantings. Lavender's first appearance in my herb garden was this year,. It did not thrive but I am waiting until next season to decide whether to pull the plant from my garden. I placed it in my herb garden, since it is an herb. A thirty thousand dollar, award winning, landscape project recently written up in our local paper, featured lavender as a permanent border planting on the walk to the front door. I have seen thyme suggested as ground cover and mints as options for those gardeners looking for natural insect repellent. Kale, a fall favorite of the landscape community in this town, is actually an edible plant from the mustard family. Its' true home is in the vegetable garden though I would not be surprised to find it is used more frequently as a landscape plant. Who knows, lettuce could be next.
While herbs are breaking out of their traditional kitchen garden home, I think a kitchen garden is the best place for these plants. For the cook, a kitchen garden is an outside pantry. For the gardener, it is a interesting garden to plan and tend. It's location near the kitchen door, may even tempt a gardener to use their garden while cooking. It worked that way for me. I think next year I will include mint plants in my kitchen garden, for fragrance if nothing else. I know I need different types of parsley and my dill plantings need more than a little work. Fennel looks funky, even though I have no idea what it is used for. I think my kitchen garden will be even more spectacular next year, if for no other reason than it is right out my kitchen door.
Kitchen gardens are herb and vegetable beds located outside your kitchen door. A kitchen garden is a functional garden, its' purpose to provide fresh seasonings needed for food preparation. Think of it as an outdoor pantry filled with very fresh oregano, parsley, basil , and lettuce. It is close to the kitchen door so the cook can easily grab a handful of parsley or chives while preparing a meal. Ease of use also translates into ease of maintenance. If your kitchen garden is the first thing you see when walking out your door it is more likely to receive the attention needed to produce a bumper crop of seasonings. Pulling weeds and proactively preventing pests is easier done a little bit at a time on a regular basis. Picking basil and pulling weeds begins to occur simultaneously in a kitchen garden, just remember to use the basil not the weeds in your salad.
All you need to create a kitchen garden is a sunny spot outside your kitchen door. Ideally, a garden bed is best suited to create an outdoor pantry but most herbs and some vegetables can be grown in containers which will serve as adequate substitutes. Even if you have a garden space in which to plant your outdoor pantry, including a few containers will add visual interest to your functional garden and provide the sheltered growing environment for herbs that are particularly susceptible to slug and other insect damage. I built a raised planting box , inspired by a 1960's garden book, that houses my basil plants and shields my air conditioner unit from view. The raised bed prevents most insect damage to my basil plants and allows me to quickly assess if netting or other measures are needed to protect these herbs. I can also harvest my basil while standing in the rain. Most of the other herbs I plant require at least dusty knees and a little more effort. My raised planting box is several feet tall and allows easy access to the herbs I plant in it. Large containers found at your local garden store will serve the same purpose.
Deciding what to plant in your kitchen garden should begin with the herbs and vegetables you use most frequently while cooking. Chives are easy to grow perennials and can be used in a variety of dishes, not to mention as a topping for baked potatoes. Chives can be grown from seed but acquiring a divided clump of an existing chive plant will quickly provide you a more mature plant. Chives' flower and these flowers are edible and attractive. Also worth mentioning are garlic chives, which can also be grown from seed. Garlic chives appear similar to traditional chives but their leaves produce a garlic flavor rather than the slightly onion flavor of traditional chives. Remember to label your chives if more than one type is planted.
Garlic is an option for your kitchen garden. The leaves of the garlic plant can be uses in a similar manner to garlic chives. In fact immature garlic plants will produce a garlic" green onion " that is delicious in cooking. Most gardening sources tell you not to plant the cloves from the garlic purchased at the grocery store. If your garlic cloves have begun to spout , planting these cloves will produce very good garlic" green onions ". Plant the clove with the green sprout reaching for the sun. If you are hoping for full fledged garlic clusters, I would advise following traditional advice, since I have never allowed my garlic plants to reach maturity.
Green onions are tasty additions to any kitchen garden as are cherry tomatoes and lettuce. Most lettuce plants are cool season crops and are best grown early and late in the growing season. Home grown lettuce is delicious but it looks different than what you buy in the store. Loose leaf lettuce is the easiest to grow in your kitchen garden and you will most likely be harvesting individual leaves rather then full heads of lettuce. If your lettuce is bitter it has " bolted" and you should wait for the next cool growing season. I let my lettuce plants continue to grow last season as an experiment and they grow quite tall. The leaves are no longer pleasant to eat but the plants do flower. The plants did not self sow, at least in the fall growing season, I am curious to see what happens in the spring.
I love basil as you may have guessed since it has its' own planter. Basil is difficult to grow from seed though if you have good indoor growing conditions it can be done. While I have grown basil from seed, I find buying basil plants at the garden center produces more productive plants. Basil comes in different varieties but I normally only grow "traditional" basil since I use it to make pesto. I have started adding basil leaves to salads with positive results. I may try a wider variety of basil plants this upcoming season, if my traditional basil plants allow them room in the planter. Basil is a good choice for containers. It needs adequate water and the confined area of a container allows daily watering when other more drought tolerant plants can wait a day or so. Most importantly, the leaves of the basil plant that are so delicious to us in salads and pesto, are also delicious to insects and other garden pests. Containers reduce insect damage. Moreover, while basil plants love the heat of summer, they do survive into fall. Planting basil in containers allows the gardener to protect their plants against early fall freezes. A futile effort unless there is a Indian summer, since basil really needs the strong sun of summer.
Oregano is a must in any kitchen garden. It is a perennial and it will spread. Thyme is a delicious herb and its' tiny leaves are wonderful in Italian cooking. Parsley is easy to grow from seed and is a must in any garden for its' beauty as much as its' culinary purposes. Sage has beautiful foliage and is a worthy addition for ascetic purposes even if you are not really sure what it is used for. Mints come in a variety of flavors but they are invasive and hard to control. The same can be said for cat nip, though I did manage to kill my cat nip plant this season. The cat nip was intentional planted for my cat so its total eradication from my garden was not intentional. I must admit I impressed the garden supply staff with the effectiveness of my control methods. I discovered this while searching for a new cat nip plant for my garden.
A kitchen garden should contain the herbs and vegetables a cook needs. After these plants are established, a gardeners focus can shift to adding plants for beauty, or just to have an extensive herb garden. I was very wary about using anything grown in my own garden for years. I would grow the lettuce, but not eat it. I would serve it to my husband, who loved it, but my personal salad needed to come from the grocery store. I planted different herbs in my garden to create a herb garden, not to use it for cooking. Over time, I quietly began to experiment with the herbs growing in my garden. Dried oregano slowly became replaced by fresh oregano. The same goes for dill and parsley. Then I could no longer find basil at the grocery store, so I grew my own. This year I tried carrots: great cooked, not so good raw. I am trying a different kind next year.
Having a kitchen garden outside your kitchen door also encourages a gardener to actually use their plants in cooking. It is therefore important to label your plants so you do not poison your family. While many of my herbs self sow, if I cannot positively identify them, I treat them like a weed. I am still new to this kitchen garden world and feel the lure of prepackaged grocery store products every day. Until you are confident in your own ability to identify herbs, when in doubt, do without.
Herbs are increasing in popularity not only for their culinary uses but also for their beauty. Numerous gardening and landscape sources are suggesting herbs as decorative plantings. Lavender's first appearance in my herb garden was this year,. It did not thrive but I am waiting until next season to decide whether to pull the plant from my garden. I placed it in my herb garden, since it is an herb. A thirty thousand dollar, award winning, landscape project recently written up in our local paper, featured lavender as a permanent border planting on the walk to the front door. I have seen thyme suggested as ground cover and mints as options for those gardeners looking for natural insect repellent. Kale, a fall favorite of the landscape community in this town, is actually an edible plant from the mustard family. Its' true home is in the vegetable garden though I would not be surprised to find it is used more frequently as a landscape plant. Who knows, lettuce could be next.
While herbs are breaking out of their traditional kitchen garden home, I think a kitchen garden is the best place for these plants. For the cook, a kitchen garden is an outside pantry. For the gardener, it is a interesting garden to plan and tend. It's location near the kitchen door, may even tempt a gardener to use their garden while cooking. It worked that way for me. I think next year I will include mint plants in my kitchen garden, for fragrance if nothing else. I know I need different types of parsley and my dill plantings need more than a little work. Fennel looks funky, even though I have no idea what it is used for. I think my kitchen garden will be even more spectacular next year, if for no other reason than it is right out my kitchen door.
Saturday, December 02, 2006
Dried flowers -Mediums/Gels- (By 4Ernesto)
You can find below information and instructions on how to use mediums in making dried flowers. I hope that those information will be useful to you.
Silica gel, sensational development
- This new chemical compound is expensive, and rather difficult to work with, but the results well merit its use. Exceptionally beautiful are roses, camellias, delphiniums, dahlias, Christmas roses, and daffodils preserved in gel. After continual tests, I am convinced that it is the best of all materials for drying flowers. However, let me assure you that if your time is limited or your pocketbook slim you must not feel that it is a necessity. The other mediums have much to offer; I have been using them for years and know that they will enable you to dry all of the lovely flowers that you could wish. If you decide to invest in silica gel, you should have a minimum of five pounds, but ten or fifteen are preferable. This will be costly but once you have purchased a supply it will last always. I feel that it is impractical to use silica gel for foliage when the other mediums will do just as well, and other methods (glycerine and pressing) are much easier and often better. I advise, in most cases, using silica gel for flowers only.
The different mediums
A. Silica Gel
- Silica gel has many industrial uses, among which are the packaging of baby powders and certain foods such as potato chips and cereals. It is also now being prepared especially for drying flowers and is sold under brand names at garden shops, hardware, chain and drug stores, and by mail order.
- These preparations are composed of a combination of two sizes of the gel, a fine mesh that is white and a small amount of a coarser mesh that is blue. When the blue "Tel-Tale" fades to white or turns pink it is an indication that it has absorbed moisture and cannot be used again until it has been reactivated. This is done by placing it in a shallow pan in the oven at 300 degrees F. until the blue colour returns. It should then immediately be poured into an airtight container and allowed to cool before re-using. Silica gel may be used over and over again.
- Mixing your own silica gel compound is not very practical. It is more expensive than the ready mixed preparations and also the materials are not always available in small quantities. If for some reason, however, you do prefer to make your own mix, here is the formula that I advise: mixes thoroughly 1/3 lb. of 6-16 mesh silica gel (Tel-Tale) with 5 lbs. of 28-200 mesh.
- An interesting feature about silica gel and one that you should know is that it could actually be soaking wet, yet to the touch and all outward appearances it will seem to be "bone dry". For this reason the "Tel-Tale" blue, or indicating grain, is absolutely necessary to let you know by its colour when the gel must be dried out in the oven.
B. Meal and Borax
- Combine ten parts of white cornmeal with three parts borax and mix thoroughly. (If some of this adheres to flowers after drying, it may be shaken off or removed with a small paintbrush.)
C. Perlite Aggregate (crushed volcanic rock)
- This is used in mixing plaster and can be obtained at building supply houses. It is fast acting and very inexpensive.
D. Sand and Borax
- If white corn meal is not available in your vicinity, sand may be used in its place, washed and sifted if necessary. I prefer meal and borax but when sand is lightened with borax in proportions according to weight of the sand you will find it efficient. Heavy sand needs three fourths borax to one fourth sand, whereas fine sand requires only one fourth borax to three fourths sand.
- After you have chosen the medium that you wish to use, the next step is to decide whether the flowers should be dried face-up (example, peonies), face-down (gloriosa daisies), or horizontally (spike of delphinium).
Drying flowers face-up
- Many flowers dry best face-up, their stems hanging straight down. To accomplish this follow the directions below:
Silica Gel (Face-up)
- Obtain a 50 lb. lard tin from your hardware store. Cut a strip of corrugated cardboard seven or eight inches wide to fit inside and around the lower part. Place on top of this a circular piece of two-inch Styrofoam that has been cut one fourth of an inch smaller than circumference of the can.
- In order that this may be easily removed make a handle by inserting a folded piece of rather heavy florist wire through the centre, leaving a three-inch loop for the handle on top and bending the underneath wires at right angles to make secure.
- Honeycomb the Styrofoam with an ice pick, or other similar object, so that when stems of flowers are put through they will hang straight down while the heads are supported and will remain on top.
- To prevent the silica gel fro trickling through the holes when flowers are being covered, place on top of the Styrofoam a thin piece of cotton, either absorbent or batting, that has been cut one inch wider than the Styrofoam.
- Now you are ready to put flowers into the can. To do this, lift the cotton slightly to find where the holes have been pierced and draw stems of the flowers through both the cotton and the Styrofoam. Be sure that the cotton is well around the stems and that the heads of the flowers left on top are not touching. Gently pour the silica gel under, around and between the petals until the flowers are lightly but completely covered. Take great care not to bend or disarrange any part of the flower and last, but not least, be very certain that the tightly fitted lid is firmly pressed on the can immediately.
- You will find that when this medium is used the stems do not always dry as quickly as the heads of the flowers; therefore it is wise to hang them until they are thoroughly dry, before using.
- If you wish to dry a few flowers only, ones with very short stems, a cake or candy tin or other sealable container may be used. If you place a one-inch piece of Styrofoam, cut to fit, in the bottom of the can it will save a great deal of silica gel. The stems may then be inserted and covered as directed above. If container is not perfectly tight, seal the lid with freezer tape.
- When sufficient time has been allowed for dehydration, carefully pour off and save the silica gel, and remove flowers from the Styrofoam.
Other Mediums (Face-up)
- Use a heavy cardboard or corrugated box about three inches in depth propped over a carton eight or more inches high. Punch holes in the shallow box far enough (apart for heads of the flowers) not to touch and large enough for the stems to go through. Proceed in the same manner as that described for covering with silica gel, only it is not necessary to cover the box.
Drying flowers face-down or horizontally
All mediums
- If flowers are to be dried face-down, or horizontally, cover bottom of the can or box with an inch or more of the medium you have chosen. Holding the flower slightly above this, lightly fluff it up, under, around and over until the flower is barely covered. Put only one layer in each can or box. Clusters of flowers may also be dried in this way. Stems need not be covered.
Time required for drying
- The time needed for dehydration depends upon a number of things; temperature, humidity, medium used and moisture content of the flower. A marigold, for instance, will take as long as three weeks while a hollyhock will take only a few days. All flowers in silica gel dry more quickly than in other mediums. A sure test of their dryness is to brush aside a little of the medium and if the petals are crisp to the touch they will be thoroughly dry. If the hanging method is used the testing is simple.
Additional heat for quick drying
- It is sometimes desirable to hasten the drying time of certain flowers. This may be accomplished by placing the box, or can, containing the flowers, on top of a furnace. Watch the flowers carefully and remove from the heat as soon as they are dry, or they will become too brittle. Any flower desired in a hurry may be dried in this way.
- If you use the hanging method and desire quick drying, suspend flowers directly over the furnace.
Combining fresh and dried material
- Sometimes, to give an extremely naturalistic effect, dried flowers may be used with fresh evergreen foliage. If well conditioned, all foliage of this type will last for several weeks so that the arrangement will be semi-permanent. To condition, crush ends of the stems an inch or more and submerge the entire branch ten to twelve hours. When the foliage fades it will be a simple matter to replace with fresh evergreens. Hemlock seems to be a misunderstood evergreen. Frequently it has appeared in print that the needles are inclined to drop, making it impractical to use in arrangements. Our opinion is that when this happens the hemlock has not been thoroughly conditioned. If treated as directed above and always kept in water, it will definitely last for at least two weeks. Possible, if kept in an extremely hot and very dry room, the needles might drop, but under normal conditions it is long-lasting and dependable.
- In making the arrangement be certain that the stems of the dried flowers do not touch the water in the container. In order to accomplish this attach a florist pick to the end of the stem.
- Another suggestion which I highly recommend is the combination of dried pussy willows with fresh daffodils or other flowers. The season for pussy willows being so short we think that it is very advantageous to dry them, after which one can scarcely distinguish them from those freshly cut.
Silica gel, sensational development
- This new chemical compound is expensive, and rather difficult to work with, but the results well merit its use. Exceptionally beautiful are roses, camellias, delphiniums, dahlias, Christmas roses, and daffodils preserved in gel. After continual tests, I am convinced that it is the best of all materials for drying flowers. However, let me assure you that if your time is limited or your pocketbook slim you must not feel that it is a necessity. The other mediums have much to offer; I have been using them for years and know that they will enable you to dry all of the lovely flowers that you could wish. If you decide to invest in silica gel, you should have a minimum of five pounds, but ten or fifteen are preferable. This will be costly but once you have purchased a supply it will last always. I feel that it is impractical to use silica gel for foliage when the other mediums will do just as well, and other methods (glycerine and pressing) are much easier and often better. I advise, in most cases, using silica gel for flowers only.
The different mediums
A. Silica Gel
- Silica gel has many industrial uses, among which are the packaging of baby powders and certain foods such as potato chips and cereals. It is also now being prepared especially for drying flowers and is sold under brand names at garden shops, hardware, chain and drug stores, and by mail order.
- These preparations are composed of a combination of two sizes of the gel, a fine mesh that is white and a small amount of a coarser mesh that is blue. When the blue "Tel-Tale" fades to white or turns pink it is an indication that it has absorbed moisture and cannot be used again until it has been reactivated. This is done by placing it in a shallow pan in the oven at 300 degrees F. until the blue colour returns. It should then immediately be poured into an airtight container and allowed to cool before re-using. Silica gel may be used over and over again.
- Mixing your own silica gel compound is not very practical. It is more expensive than the ready mixed preparations and also the materials are not always available in small quantities. If for some reason, however, you do prefer to make your own mix, here is the formula that I advise: mixes thoroughly 1/3 lb. of 6-16 mesh silica gel (Tel-Tale) with 5 lbs. of 28-200 mesh.
- An interesting feature about silica gel and one that you should know is that it could actually be soaking wet, yet to the touch and all outward appearances it will seem to be "bone dry". For this reason the "Tel-Tale" blue, or indicating grain, is absolutely necessary to let you know by its colour when the gel must be dried out in the oven.
B. Meal and Borax
- Combine ten parts of white cornmeal with three parts borax and mix thoroughly. (If some of this adheres to flowers after drying, it may be shaken off or removed with a small paintbrush.)
C. Perlite Aggregate (crushed volcanic rock)
- This is used in mixing plaster and can be obtained at building supply houses. It is fast acting and very inexpensive.
D. Sand and Borax
- If white corn meal is not available in your vicinity, sand may be used in its place, washed and sifted if necessary. I prefer meal and borax but when sand is lightened with borax in proportions according to weight of the sand you will find it efficient. Heavy sand needs three fourths borax to one fourth sand, whereas fine sand requires only one fourth borax to three fourths sand.
- After you have chosen the medium that you wish to use, the next step is to decide whether the flowers should be dried face-up (example, peonies), face-down (gloriosa daisies), or horizontally (spike of delphinium).
Drying flowers face-up
- Many flowers dry best face-up, their stems hanging straight down. To accomplish this follow the directions below:
Silica Gel (Face-up)
- Obtain a 50 lb. lard tin from your hardware store. Cut a strip of corrugated cardboard seven or eight inches wide to fit inside and around the lower part. Place on top of this a circular piece of two-inch Styrofoam that has been cut one fourth of an inch smaller than circumference of the can.
- In order that this may be easily removed make a handle by inserting a folded piece of rather heavy florist wire through the centre, leaving a three-inch loop for the handle on top and bending the underneath wires at right angles to make secure.
- Honeycomb the Styrofoam with an ice pick, or other similar object, so that when stems of flowers are put through they will hang straight down while the heads are supported and will remain on top.
- To prevent the silica gel fro trickling through the holes when flowers are being covered, place on top of the Styrofoam a thin piece of cotton, either absorbent or batting, that has been cut one inch wider than the Styrofoam.
- Now you are ready to put flowers into the can. To do this, lift the cotton slightly to find where the holes have been pierced and draw stems of the flowers through both the cotton and the Styrofoam. Be sure that the cotton is well around the stems and that the heads of the flowers left on top are not touching. Gently pour the silica gel under, around and between the petals until the flowers are lightly but completely covered. Take great care not to bend or disarrange any part of the flower and last, but not least, be very certain that the tightly fitted lid is firmly pressed on the can immediately.
- You will find that when this medium is used the stems do not always dry as quickly as the heads of the flowers; therefore it is wise to hang them until they are thoroughly dry, before using.
- If you wish to dry a few flowers only, ones with very short stems, a cake or candy tin or other sealable container may be used. If you place a one-inch piece of Styrofoam, cut to fit, in the bottom of the can it will save a great deal of silica gel. The stems may then be inserted and covered as directed above. If container is not perfectly tight, seal the lid with freezer tape.
- When sufficient time has been allowed for dehydration, carefully pour off and save the silica gel, and remove flowers from the Styrofoam.
Other Mediums (Face-up)
- Use a heavy cardboard or corrugated box about three inches in depth propped over a carton eight or more inches high. Punch holes in the shallow box far enough (apart for heads of the flowers) not to touch and large enough for the stems to go through. Proceed in the same manner as that described for covering with silica gel, only it is not necessary to cover the box.
Drying flowers face-down or horizontally
All mediums
- If flowers are to be dried face-down, or horizontally, cover bottom of the can or box with an inch or more of the medium you have chosen. Holding the flower slightly above this, lightly fluff it up, under, around and over until the flower is barely covered. Put only one layer in each can or box. Clusters of flowers may also be dried in this way. Stems need not be covered.
Time required for drying
- The time needed for dehydration depends upon a number of things; temperature, humidity, medium used and moisture content of the flower. A marigold, for instance, will take as long as three weeks while a hollyhock will take only a few days. All flowers in silica gel dry more quickly than in other mediums. A sure test of their dryness is to brush aside a little of the medium and if the petals are crisp to the touch they will be thoroughly dry. If the hanging method is used the testing is simple.
Additional heat for quick drying
- It is sometimes desirable to hasten the drying time of certain flowers. This may be accomplished by placing the box, or can, containing the flowers, on top of a furnace. Watch the flowers carefully and remove from the heat as soon as they are dry, or they will become too brittle. Any flower desired in a hurry may be dried in this way.
- If you use the hanging method and desire quick drying, suspend flowers directly over the furnace.
Combining fresh and dried material
- Sometimes, to give an extremely naturalistic effect, dried flowers may be used with fresh evergreen foliage. If well conditioned, all foliage of this type will last for several weeks so that the arrangement will be semi-permanent. To condition, crush ends of the stems an inch or more and submerge the entire branch ten to twelve hours. When the foliage fades it will be a simple matter to replace with fresh evergreens. Hemlock seems to be a misunderstood evergreen. Frequently it has appeared in print that the needles are inclined to drop, making it impractical to use in arrangements. Our opinion is that when this happens the hemlock has not been thoroughly conditioned. If treated as directed above and always kept in water, it will definitely last for at least two weeks. Possible, if kept in an extremely hot and very dry room, the needles might drop, but under normal conditions it is long-lasting and dependable.
- In making the arrangement be certain that the stems of the dried flowers do not touch the water in the container. In order to accomplish this attach a florist pick to the end of the stem.
- Another suggestion which I highly recommend is the combination of dried pussy willows with fresh daffodils or other flowers. The season for pussy willows being so short we think that it is very advantageous to dry them, after which one can scarcely distinguish them from those freshly cut.
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