Hints of autumn appear to be everywhere. The kids are back to school and routines; in some places, leaves are changing (already!); pumpkins and apples are appearing in local grocery and produce store and produce stores and heavier blankets are being pulled out of closets. Well, you get the picture. There is a definite nip to the air and fall is just around the corner. It is time to get the water gardens and ponds ready for fall and winter and the fish ready for their long winters nap. Rotting plants, dead bugs and bacteria can accumulate, so now that the air is cooler, you can take the time to clean all that nasty gunk out.
You may also notice that your water plants, such as water lilies are slowing their growth and getting ready for dormancy. Do not feed or fertilize any of your outdoor garden plants from now on. Now is the time to trim the dead and fading foliage, but you can wait until the first frost for that (some time after the middle of October). You can take this opportunity to bring in your tropical marginal plants indoors since the nights are getting colder. In order to protect the hardier of your pond plants, lower them to the bottom of the pond for the winter. You might want to wait until spring to divide and transplant the rest of the marginal plants for your pond or garden.
If you are leaving the water in, you will want to take this opportunity to put some sort of protective netting or screening over top of your pond because of falling leaves. This will stop them from entering your pond. But make sure the netting does not enter the water as the fish can get caught in it. Put a piece of dowel in the middle of your pond or water garden and put the netting over it, in much the same way you would do a tent. If you want to empty out your pond of water, now is the time to do so. As the water empties, you need to get a stiff brush and wash down the sides of the pond and clean the rocks and the bottom of the pond. Clean up the debris on the bottom and refill the pond half way (do not forget to dechlorinate the water!). Before emptying your pond, however, you need to decide what you want to do with your fish. If you live in an area with a harsh winter climate, you might want to bring them indoors and put them into a holding tank for the winter months.
However, some fish can stay out doors all winter. My father in law simply cleans out his garden pond, refills it and leaves the fish in all winter (making sure that the top never gets frozen over, so the fish can breathe). You too can do this by feeding your fish a higher carbohydrate diet (and lower in protein) when the autumn begins. During the winter, fish do not hibernate, but their metabolism slows way down as the water cools. If you fatten the fish up before winter, they will not need to be fed during the winter because they will have enough to live on during the winter. Do not feed your fish during the winter since their metabolism has slowed down that they will not be able to properly digest the food even though they may seem hungry! Some people place wood over the top of the pond to keep predators away from the fish over the winter months and this will help deter the growth of algae during the sunny days of winter and into the early spring. Your fish will survive in water that is as little as eighteen inches as long as the water does not freeze solid.
While you are maintaining your water garden or pond, you will need to take a look at your filter. This is the time to clean it thoroughly and store it for next spring. Do not store them where they will freeze such as a shed. Place your de-icers and bubblers into the pond or water garden and keep a careful eye on it during the winter so it will not freeze over. NEVER break the ice if it has frozen over because it sends shock waves into your pond or water garden and can scare or kill your fish.
That is about all you need to worry about. The hard and sometimes nasty work will be done in the autumn and your water garden or outdoor pond will be ready and waiting for the warm months of spring and available for you to enjoy again next year.
Wednesday, September 13, 2006
Monday, September 11, 2006
Fall, WInter and Your Garden
Ah, fall, what is not to love about this season? The cooler nights and the crisp mornings are enjoyable for most of us. It is the favorite time of year for many people, not only because school starts and we are pushed back into regular routines, but because the air is cooler, the thoughts are turned to spending more time indoors. Although the summer's last gasp is still in the air and the day still gets warm and even now as the day gets shorter, it is time to consider what needs to be done for your garden for the fall and the upcoming winter season.
Now is a good time to plant bulbs that will bloom next spring. Bulbs such as tulips and crocuses are the ones that are hardy and will last over the cold winter and bloom into beautiful flowers in the spring. The best thing to remember is when planting your bulbs is to think of where your spring and summer sun falls and where the sun will not be obscured by the leaves of trees, so these blooms will get the most of the sun. You will want to also consider the proximity of the planting to the house. You should plant the bulbs at least five feet away from the foundation of your house because the heat of the house can cause damage to your bulbs. Make sure the soil has good drainage and has a ph level of at least 6.0 and no higher than 7.0.
When you are choosing your blooms, you will want to consider the size of the bulbs. There should be a picture of the blooms beside the bucket of bulbs at the store to give you an idea of the size and color of the flower. Usually, smaller bulbs will produce flowers that bloom earlier in the spring such as crocuses. Larger bulbs, such as tulips bloom later into the spring. Before planting, make sure the bulbs are firm and mold free. These bulbs are best planted after the first frost, so the bulbs will continue to be cool from the beginning but of course, this depends on where you live and what your weather is like. It is best to check with your local nursery and see what they suggest. You will want to keep in mind that when planting fall bulbs and seeds you should add some nutrients to your soil to ensure proper growth of your plants.
The fall is a good time to begin your winter clean up of both your garden and your yard. Also a nice thing about the cooler weather is that it slows the growth of weeds as well. You can start cutting back flowers and plants that have already bloomed. Remove all the dead growth, clean up the dead plant debris (you can take this opportunity to add these to your composter!) But the key is not to be too clean. Prepare your beds by leaving some debris to shelter your gardens from the winter. But keep watering your garden until the snow flies, because when the ground freezes, the water can not permeate the through.
The flowers and plants that you want to save can be covered up at night when frost is expected. You will want to harvest the remaining vegetables and clean up any fruit trees that you have. Take this chance to mow your grass one last time to get the lawn ready for winter as well. Do not forget to pack up your hose. Take some time to drain it, roll it up and put it into your garage for storage. You will want to make sure you turn off your outside taps and bring in any metal hose holders that can rust in the wet and cold winter weather.
Trees and shrubs should be cared for and protected during the autumn clean up season since smaller shrubs can be damaged by heavy ices and snows. You can protect the smaller shrubs by building a lean to out of wood or cover them with thick canvas.
This is also the time to bring your house plants that have spent the summer outside indoors, but make sure you do not bring in any unwanted guests with them. Give your plants a good rinse with the hose or by using some insecticide soap for cleaning the plant. You can take this opportunity to aerate the ground by using a garden fork and if you are planning to use compost as ground cover, now is the time to do this.
Gardening is for some a year round and enjoyable activity for some, but for the rest of us, hopefully these few pointers will help us and our gardens ready for the fall and the winter to come.
Now is a good time to plant bulbs that will bloom next spring. Bulbs such as tulips and crocuses are the ones that are hardy and will last over the cold winter and bloom into beautiful flowers in the spring. The best thing to remember is when planting your bulbs is to think of where your spring and summer sun falls and where the sun will not be obscured by the leaves of trees, so these blooms will get the most of the sun. You will want to also consider the proximity of the planting to the house. You should plant the bulbs at least five feet away from the foundation of your house because the heat of the house can cause damage to your bulbs. Make sure the soil has good drainage and has a ph level of at least 6.0 and no higher than 7.0.
When you are choosing your blooms, you will want to consider the size of the bulbs. There should be a picture of the blooms beside the bucket of bulbs at the store to give you an idea of the size and color of the flower. Usually, smaller bulbs will produce flowers that bloom earlier in the spring such as crocuses. Larger bulbs, such as tulips bloom later into the spring. Before planting, make sure the bulbs are firm and mold free. These bulbs are best planted after the first frost, so the bulbs will continue to be cool from the beginning but of course, this depends on where you live and what your weather is like. It is best to check with your local nursery and see what they suggest. You will want to keep in mind that when planting fall bulbs and seeds you should add some nutrients to your soil to ensure proper growth of your plants.
The fall is a good time to begin your winter clean up of both your garden and your yard. Also a nice thing about the cooler weather is that it slows the growth of weeds as well. You can start cutting back flowers and plants that have already bloomed. Remove all the dead growth, clean up the dead plant debris (you can take this opportunity to add these to your composter!) But the key is not to be too clean. Prepare your beds by leaving some debris to shelter your gardens from the winter. But keep watering your garden until the snow flies, because when the ground freezes, the water can not permeate the through.
The flowers and plants that you want to save can be covered up at night when frost is expected. You will want to harvest the remaining vegetables and clean up any fruit trees that you have. Take this chance to mow your grass one last time to get the lawn ready for winter as well. Do not forget to pack up your hose. Take some time to drain it, roll it up and put it into your garage for storage. You will want to make sure you turn off your outside taps and bring in any metal hose holders that can rust in the wet and cold winter weather.
Trees and shrubs should be cared for and protected during the autumn clean up season since smaller shrubs can be damaged by heavy ices and snows. You can protect the smaller shrubs by building a lean to out of wood or cover them with thick canvas.
This is also the time to bring your house plants that have spent the summer outside indoors, but make sure you do not bring in any unwanted guests with them. Give your plants a good rinse with the hose or by using some insecticide soap for cleaning the plant. You can take this opportunity to aerate the ground by using a garden fork and if you are planning to use compost as ground cover, now is the time to do this.
Gardening is for some a year round and enjoyable activity for some, but for the rest of us, hopefully these few pointers will help us and our gardens ready for the fall and the winter to come.
Sunday, September 10, 2006
Your Garden and Frost
By Christina VanGinkel
If you are a bit disappointed this fall with the abundance, or should I say lack of abundance, of the apples on trees that often provide you with plenty of delicious apples for both eating fresh from the tree and baking apples, then a look back at this past spring might provide you with answers.
For example, the area that I happen to live in, in northern Wisconsin, was hit with a late frost, not to be mistaken with a light frost that can hit on almost any morning in the part of the state that I live in throughout the months of spring and into early summer, but a full on heavy, deep freezing frost. Many of the apple trees in our area had already progressed into a full bloom, and with the heavy frost, some, but thankfully not all of, the local apple harvest was affected. Those trees that often provide apples on the early to mid season side, more mid to late summer than early fall, were those most affected. Still, even some of the more traditionally thought of fall apples were also affected.
An orchard by us that has a variety of apple trees, from Ginger gold and Ambrosia, to Jonogold, Cortland, Honey Crisp, and more, lost quite a few apple blossoms, and thus apples, due to the freeze. I heard them comment that some trees that they originally thought heavily damaged were not, and others that should have been fine went on to produce a minimal amount or no apples at all. Others produced fruit that was a bit smaller than what they would normally produce, but considering that, our area also experienced drought conditions early in the growing season, that that may have had a lot to do with this issue was also under discussion.
With just about any type of plant, whether it is a fruit tree, flowering bush, flowers, vegetables, what have you, frost can have an adverse effect. Sometimes the effect is not that noticeable, such as a slightly smaller crop than normal, but other times it is devastating. Of course, the best way to not have to worry about frost damage with smaller plants, such as vegetables and flowering plants, or those in containers, is to cover or move them to a protected area if you even suspect they might be damaged when there is any risk of frost occurring.
Paying attention to the weather reports on when it is safe to plant or move seedlings outdoors is also highly advisable. It is always awful to hear how well so and so was doing with their seedlings, that they finally had conquered the learning curve of growing plants from seeds they harvested the year before, only to find out that they lost the majority of their hard work to a killing frost because they did not pay attention to the weather.
Plants in containers can be moved underneath eaves, into a garage or shed, or into or up against any outbuilding or enclosure with a roof. If just moving the plants against the wall of a building, the roofline should extend out from the building to increase the likelihood that the plants will be protected. This can be especially important if the frost is heavy. Plants can also be brought indoors, but keeping them somewhere, that the difference in temperatures is not too extreme, is of course best. Going from a cool outside to a too warm indoors can cause your plants to dry out quicker than would normally occur if they were left outdoors, so be sure to check them often, and water them well if needed. Too extreme a change in temperatures can also cause a bit of shock to some plants. So keep this in mind if you do end up bringing plants from the cold outdoors to a very warm inside.
For plants that cannot be moved, watering the soil around the plants will help some, but should not be counted on to wholly protect them against the frost. This tactic works better when the frost is of a light nature. Covering plants with pillowcases, sheets, paper bags, etc., is better than just leaving them exposed to the frost. I was always taught to pop a few small holes, think just slightly larger than pin sized, if covering with plastic, to allow the plants to breathe.
If you are a bit disappointed this fall with the abundance, or should I say lack of abundance, of the apples on trees that often provide you with plenty of delicious apples for both eating fresh from the tree and baking apples, then a look back at this past spring might provide you with answers.
For example, the area that I happen to live in, in northern Wisconsin, was hit with a late frost, not to be mistaken with a light frost that can hit on almost any morning in the part of the state that I live in throughout the months of spring and into early summer, but a full on heavy, deep freezing frost. Many of the apple trees in our area had already progressed into a full bloom, and with the heavy frost, some, but thankfully not all of, the local apple harvest was affected. Those trees that often provide apples on the early to mid season side, more mid to late summer than early fall, were those most affected. Still, even some of the more traditionally thought of fall apples were also affected.
An orchard by us that has a variety of apple trees, from Ginger gold and Ambrosia, to Jonogold, Cortland, Honey Crisp, and more, lost quite a few apple blossoms, and thus apples, due to the freeze. I heard them comment that some trees that they originally thought heavily damaged were not, and others that should have been fine went on to produce a minimal amount or no apples at all. Others produced fruit that was a bit smaller than what they would normally produce, but considering that, our area also experienced drought conditions early in the growing season, that that may have had a lot to do with this issue was also under discussion.
With just about any type of plant, whether it is a fruit tree, flowering bush, flowers, vegetables, what have you, frost can have an adverse effect. Sometimes the effect is not that noticeable, such as a slightly smaller crop than normal, but other times it is devastating. Of course, the best way to not have to worry about frost damage with smaller plants, such as vegetables and flowering plants, or those in containers, is to cover or move them to a protected area if you even suspect they might be damaged when there is any risk of frost occurring.
Paying attention to the weather reports on when it is safe to plant or move seedlings outdoors is also highly advisable. It is always awful to hear how well so and so was doing with their seedlings, that they finally had conquered the learning curve of growing plants from seeds they harvested the year before, only to find out that they lost the majority of their hard work to a killing frost because they did not pay attention to the weather.
Plants in containers can be moved underneath eaves, into a garage or shed, or into or up against any outbuilding or enclosure with a roof. If just moving the plants against the wall of a building, the roofline should extend out from the building to increase the likelihood that the plants will be protected. This can be especially important if the frost is heavy. Plants can also be brought indoors, but keeping them somewhere, that the difference in temperatures is not too extreme, is of course best. Going from a cool outside to a too warm indoors can cause your plants to dry out quicker than would normally occur if they were left outdoors, so be sure to check them often, and water them well if needed. Too extreme a change in temperatures can also cause a bit of shock to some plants. So keep this in mind if you do end up bringing plants from the cold outdoors to a very warm inside.
For plants that cannot be moved, watering the soil around the plants will help some, but should not be counted on to wholly protect them against the frost. This tactic works better when the frost is of a light nature. Covering plants with pillowcases, sheets, paper bags, etc., is better than just leaving them exposed to the frost. I was always taught to pop a few small holes, think just slightly larger than pin sized, if covering with plastic, to allow the plants to breathe.
Friday, September 01, 2006
Time for Fall Slug Control
An aggressive effort to eliminate slugs during the approaching fall season will produce amazing results come spring, especially for gardeners whom have had slug infested plants this growing season. Controlling your garden's slug population in the fall allows your plants, especially shade plants such as hostas, to begin their spring growth season free from unsightly holes in their leaves and in extreme cases total devastation of the entire plant. Effort now prevents a slug feeding frenzy come spring.
If you are not familiar with slugs they are "simply snails (mollusks) without shells." Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet "Slugs & Their Management HYG-2010-95" by David J. Shetlar. "Slugs and Snails are classified as gastropods. They are more similar to clams and mussels than to other common pests such as insects." Colorado State University Cooperative Extension no 5.515 "Slugs" by W. S. Cranshaw. They come in a variety of colors including black, grey and covered in leopard spots. Grey and black slugs are most common in my part of the country (Midwest) however leopard spotted slugs can occasionally be found, adding a stylish element to garden destruction.
These slimy, ovalish creatures expand to a length of up to seven inches. A slug will normally appear much smaller when you spot it on the underside of leaves but if you catch it moving or you place it on your hand, it will expand up to and average length of around one to two inches. Slugs also have noticeable antenna when they elongate. Normally a gardener will find slugs in a nonelongated state where they appear to be wet black or grey lumps. Black slugs often have grey underbellies. Young slugs will often appear as black or grayish/ beige dots on plants and their surrounding garden beds. Young black slugs are almost impossible to spot unless they are on a plant of contrasting color. Black slugs often are mistaken for wet specks of dirt.
All slugs feed on a wide variety of ornamental plants and vegetables. They can consume young seedlings and maturing fruits and vegetables, damaging your crop at both the beginning and end of the growing season. See CSU Cooperative Extension no 5.515, "Slugs". The most common indicator of a slug problem is the appearance of holes in the middle of a plant's foliage. If a clear slime trail is also present on or around a plant, slugs are most likely the problem. Slug trails are most evident in early morning before dried by the sun. Slugs are nocturnal and feed mostly at night or early morning. They do not like light and hide during the day. The best time to look for evidence of slug infestation, (either the trails or the slug itself), is before the dew is dried by the sun. Slug trails can have a silver tint in the early morning and to assist in differentiating dew from slug trails just remember dew does not form a path to and from your favorite Hosta. Rain will bring these pests from their hiding places so any cloudy day after a rainstorm gives a gardener the opportunity to assess whether slugs are damaging their garden. Nighttime is also a very good time to check the garden but be prepared for strange looks from neighbors when you appear to be gardening by flashlight. Even neighbors who garden are often uneducated concerning the nature of gastropods and may ridicule your efforts. Presentation of a large slug often stops this reaction either because your neighbor is revolted by the slug or suddenly realizes your gardening knowledge is far superior to theirs.
The neighboring garden bed may also be the source for your infestation. A slug can travel further than most realize by utilizing slime trails, traversing over rougher terrain then most researchers give them credit for. I personally watched in amazement as a slug, utilizing a slime trail, traveled from one garden bed to another crossing a new textured concrete drive in the process. The slug was not injured though the concrete drive irritated my hands. Cypress mulch does not slow these creatures even though its rough edges should damage a slugs' body which consists mostly of water. Slugs will also escape yard waste containers if not properly sealed. Examining the lids of trash cans containing infested waste will frequently reveal a number of slugs trying to escape their containment. Excessive heat does seem to eliminate this problem as does topping your waste with salt or other slug pesticide. Before blaming your slug problem on your neighbor's garden it is first wise to correct the problem in your own garden and then begin to place barriers to prevent re-infestation.
Salt evaporates the water in a slug's body thus killing it. Salt, however, cannot be used directly in the garden since it will contaminate your soil and kill your plants. Chemical pesticides are available in most garden stores which claim to retard or kill slug populations. Gardeners with pets or small children are often reluctant to utilize these products in fear that they will harm more than the slug population. Dried egg shells, traps and containers of stale beer are all somewhat effective and detailed in most gardening manuals. An organic alternative to pesticides is the introduction of natural predators to control whatever gardening pest you are experiencing. The natural predators for snails and slugs are not attractive to the average gardener. Frogs eat slugs and if your garden is suitable to maintain a frog this may be a natural and picturesque method to reduce the slug population. Several types of birds eat slugs but I have not found them to be and adequate control method. The presence of a dog or a cat in a yard will reduce your bird population and therefore their effectiveness as a slug deterrent. A comprehensive list of slug predators can be found on the website, "Slug& Snail Trail" "www.haywardm.supanet.com/predators.html. The parasitic nematode, Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita, is mentioned in this list as an effective slug predator. Links to suppliers of products containing these nematodes can be found on the above mentioned website.
If you are nervous about introducing biological agents into your garden or you are merely a frugal gardener, handpicking slugs and their eggs from your garden is the most effective first assault on a slug population. This method is environmentally safe and allows a gardener to assess the degree to which slugs have made your garden their home.
While many individuals are initially revolted by slugs, close observation of this creature inspires a rather begrudging admiration. While I have not yet made a slug my pet, as have individuals I know, I do have respect for their adaptation to their environment and their ability to survive. I view them as a worthy foe, not to be underestimated in my quest for a beautiful garden.
As previously noted, slugs have few natural predators in an average garden. The very elements that produce a beautiful, productive garden, good soil and moisture also produce healthy slugs. While dry weather reduces slug activity, it does not eliminate the problem. A good rainstorm or watering will bring the pests from their hiding places to begin again their assault on your garden.
A good freeze does not kill slugs as it does so many other garden pests. (Note some species do die in winter but not the grey or garden slug) Slugs over winter in your garden. This means slugs essentially hibernate during the winter months when plant life is scarce. During those brief warm spells that occur during winter, active slugs can be found under garden edgings and under leaf piles. In fact slug eggs are rather easy to find during the winter months if you can differentiate them from ice crystals. Slug eggs, tiny crystal-like balls, can be found in groupings of five to thirty, beneath the mulch, dirt, and in cracks and crevices of a garden. These eggs can be found in the garden during the entire year but sense slugs lay their eggs primarily in the fall and in the spring, finding the eggs in the winter is not unusual. These eggs survive the winter and will bring a new crop of slugs come spring.
The mating season for slugs is August to mid-October. There is some evidence slugs can reproduce asexually but most slugs seem to seek a mate. Within a few days after mating, the slug lays eggs into a hole in the ground. See Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. In warm weather these eggs can mature in as few as ten days. Efforts in the fall to eliminate slugs from the garden can not only eliminate fertile slugs that will lay eggs in the spring, eggs laid in the fall ,young slugs can be stopped from over wintering and destroying seedlings and emerging plants in the spring.
Once slugs are identified as the culprit the severity of the problem should be assessed. If a cursory inspection of the garden reveals numerous mature slugs of considerable size and even slug resistant plants are showing signs of slug damage a severe problem is present. Minimal plant damage, no visible slug trails nor mature slugs indicates a minor problem that pesticides or egg shells should correct.
When infestation is severe, drastic action should be taken. All plant debris and mulch should be removed from the affected area. Mulch provides a moist environment that slugs need to survive. Mulch also provides excellent hiding places for slugs and their eggs, making detection and removal extremely difficult. Mulch should be removed and the garden bed should not be re-mulched for at least a year. All yard waste, including mulch, should be disposed of, not composted for home use. If you compost this material you are merely relocating your slug population, not eliminating it.
The most severely damaged plants should be cut to the ground. Annuals should be removed first. Fall is the time annuals are removed from the garden so their absence in fall is not as ascetically unpleasing as removal would be during the rest of the growing season. Check the holes left by the removal of annuals for slugs and their eggs. Remove any signs of infestation. Cut the majority of the perennials to the ground, leaving some plants to serve as bait for the slug population. Dispose of the plant waste. Inspect the remainder of the plants for signs of infestation, not forgetting the remainder of any perennial you have cut to the ground. For seriously motivated gardeners, perennials can be dug up, inspected and replanted if eggs or slugs are not found in the root system or they have been removed. Throughout the fall continue to inspect your garden for indications of slug infestation and utilizing a hand rake or garden claw disturb the garden dirt so as to uncover and disrupt any slug hiding places or eggs. Keep the garden beds free of leaves and other garden waste since slugs are not only attracted to live plants but also to decaying garden matter. After the first freeze, cut the rest of your perennials to the ground.
Finally, check under material used as edging, such as bricks, stones or plastic. If the edging is permanent, utilizing a stick or garden tool, disrupt the ground by creating an indentation in the dirt on both sides of the edging material to discover eggs and active slugs. If your edging is movable, periodically turn your bricks or stones over and inspect them and the ground beneath for evidence of infestation. Garden ornamentation such as small statues, baskets, or flower pots should be checked regularly for live slugs as these ornaments serve as perfect hiding places for garden pests.
Finally prevent slugs from re entering your garden. Slugs will often hide in your lawn. During a particularly sluggy summer, slugs can be seen atop a lawn early in the morning or after a rainstorm. Slugs have also been observed dropping from trees, disturbing more than one early morning paperboy. Most garden books suggest copper striping as an effective slug barrier. Diatomaceous earth and lime are also mentioned. Only the copper striping does not need to be replaced after rain. Copper striping may be effective, but utilizing copper plumbing pipe was not effective in my experience. Dried crushed egg shells appear to have some effect as their edges become razor sharp and theoretically cut the slug causing death. Egg shells must be replaced when it rains but hopefully they add calcium to the soil. If there is evidence that your infestation is coming from either your lawn or adjoining gardens, daily sprinkling of dried egg shells, or any other barrier method is worth a try.
The most common suggestion for disposing of live slugs is to drop them in a bucket of soapy water where they drown. If lugging a bucket of watery dead slugs does not appeal to you , I have found placing them in paper yard waste bags which then must be tightly closed, will also work. A light dusting of salt on the top will ensure that any escapees will be stopped in their tracks. Placing the slugs in plastic bags used to pick up animal waste and disposing of them will also insure your garden pests will not return to their old chomping grounds.
If your slug problem is less severe, or you are obsessed by the need for a perfect garden, inspection in the fall will help you prevent (or at least slow) any slug problems in the spring. Each slug you remove is one more slug that cannot mate, reproduce, or over winter in the garden. Removing leaves, dead foliage, and annuals will go a long way to keeping your garden pest free. The garden will lose the important nutrients that homemade mulch can provide, but most leaves and annuals are removed in spring anyways. Perennials will survive the winter without protection and will look better in the spring if beds are cleaned in the fall. Rotating years when you utilize plant foliage and shredded leaves as additives to your garden is a prudent course of action when only minor slug infestation is present.
Handpicking slugs is dirty, slimy work. The results, especially if started in the fall and continued in the spring, will be a beautiful pest free garden. (Well almost). By getting down and dirty, a gardener becomes in tune to the garden habitat including garden pests and their lifecycles. Problems become easier to identify, thus can be corrected earlier before serious damage is done. Slugs are well adapted to thrive in the average garden. Interrupting their habitat and habits is the most effective way of controlling their population. While winter slug hunting is a little extreme, it may give a bored gardener something to do on a warm February day. Fall slug control; however, is a must for all gardeners who want beautiful plants come spring.
If you are not familiar with slugs they are "simply snails (mollusks) without shells." Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet "Slugs & Their Management HYG-2010-95" by David J. Shetlar. "Slugs and Snails are classified as gastropods. They are more similar to clams and mussels than to other common pests such as insects." Colorado State University Cooperative Extension no 5.515 "Slugs" by W. S. Cranshaw. They come in a variety of colors including black, grey and covered in leopard spots. Grey and black slugs are most common in my part of the country (Midwest) however leopard spotted slugs can occasionally be found, adding a stylish element to garden destruction.
These slimy, ovalish creatures expand to a length of up to seven inches. A slug will normally appear much smaller when you spot it on the underside of leaves but if you catch it moving or you place it on your hand, it will expand up to and average length of around one to two inches. Slugs also have noticeable antenna when they elongate. Normally a gardener will find slugs in a nonelongated state where they appear to be wet black or grey lumps. Black slugs often have grey underbellies. Young slugs will often appear as black or grayish/ beige dots on plants and their surrounding garden beds. Young black slugs are almost impossible to spot unless they are on a plant of contrasting color. Black slugs often are mistaken for wet specks of dirt.
All slugs feed on a wide variety of ornamental plants and vegetables. They can consume young seedlings and maturing fruits and vegetables, damaging your crop at both the beginning and end of the growing season. See CSU Cooperative Extension no 5.515, "Slugs". The most common indicator of a slug problem is the appearance of holes in the middle of a plant's foliage. If a clear slime trail is also present on or around a plant, slugs are most likely the problem. Slug trails are most evident in early morning before dried by the sun. Slugs are nocturnal and feed mostly at night or early morning. They do not like light and hide during the day. The best time to look for evidence of slug infestation, (either the trails or the slug itself), is before the dew is dried by the sun. Slug trails can have a silver tint in the early morning and to assist in differentiating dew from slug trails just remember dew does not form a path to and from your favorite Hosta. Rain will bring these pests from their hiding places so any cloudy day after a rainstorm gives a gardener the opportunity to assess whether slugs are damaging their garden. Nighttime is also a very good time to check the garden but be prepared for strange looks from neighbors when you appear to be gardening by flashlight. Even neighbors who garden are often uneducated concerning the nature of gastropods and may ridicule your efforts. Presentation of a large slug often stops this reaction either because your neighbor is revolted by the slug or suddenly realizes your gardening knowledge is far superior to theirs.
The neighboring garden bed may also be the source for your infestation. A slug can travel further than most realize by utilizing slime trails, traversing over rougher terrain then most researchers give them credit for. I personally watched in amazement as a slug, utilizing a slime trail, traveled from one garden bed to another crossing a new textured concrete drive in the process. The slug was not injured though the concrete drive irritated my hands. Cypress mulch does not slow these creatures even though its rough edges should damage a slugs' body which consists mostly of water. Slugs will also escape yard waste containers if not properly sealed. Examining the lids of trash cans containing infested waste will frequently reveal a number of slugs trying to escape their containment. Excessive heat does seem to eliminate this problem as does topping your waste with salt or other slug pesticide. Before blaming your slug problem on your neighbor's garden it is first wise to correct the problem in your own garden and then begin to place barriers to prevent re-infestation.
Salt evaporates the water in a slug's body thus killing it. Salt, however, cannot be used directly in the garden since it will contaminate your soil and kill your plants. Chemical pesticides are available in most garden stores which claim to retard or kill slug populations. Gardeners with pets or small children are often reluctant to utilize these products in fear that they will harm more than the slug population. Dried egg shells, traps and containers of stale beer are all somewhat effective and detailed in most gardening manuals. An organic alternative to pesticides is the introduction of natural predators to control whatever gardening pest you are experiencing. The natural predators for snails and slugs are not attractive to the average gardener. Frogs eat slugs and if your garden is suitable to maintain a frog this may be a natural and picturesque method to reduce the slug population. Several types of birds eat slugs but I have not found them to be and adequate control method. The presence of a dog or a cat in a yard will reduce your bird population and therefore their effectiveness as a slug deterrent. A comprehensive list of slug predators can be found on the website, "Slug& Snail Trail" "www.haywardm.supanet.com/predators.html. The parasitic nematode, Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita, is mentioned in this list as an effective slug predator. Links to suppliers of products containing these nematodes can be found on the above mentioned website.
If you are nervous about introducing biological agents into your garden or you are merely a frugal gardener, handpicking slugs and their eggs from your garden is the most effective first assault on a slug population. This method is environmentally safe and allows a gardener to assess the degree to which slugs have made your garden their home.
While many individuals are initially revolted by slugs, close observation of this creature inspires a rather begrudging admiration. While I have not yet made a slug my pet, as have individuals I know, I do have respect for their adaptation to their environment and their ability to survive. I view them as a worthy foe, not to be underestimated in my quest for a beautiful garden.
As previously noted, slugs have few natural predators in an average garden. The very elements that produce a beautiful, productive garden, good soil and moisture also produce healthy slugs. While dry weather reduces slug activity, it does not eliminate the problem. A good rainstorm or watering will bring the pests from their hiding places to begin again their assault on your garden.
A good freeze does not kill slugs as it does so many other garden pests. (Note some species do die in winter but not the grey or garden slug) Slugs over winter in your garden. This means slugs essentially hibernate during the winter months when plant life is scarce. During those brief warm spells that occur during winter, active slugs can be found under garden edgings and under leaf piles. In fact slug eggs are rather easy to find during the winter months if you can differentiate them from ice crystals. Slug eggs, tiny crystal-like balls, can be found in groupings of five to thirty, beneath the mulch, dirt, and in cracks and crevices of a garden. These eggs can be found in the garden during the entire year but sense slugs lay their eggs primarily in the fall and in the spring, finding the eggs in the winter is not unusual. These eggs survive the winter and will bring a new crop of slugs come spring.
The mating season for slugs is August to mid-October. There is some evidence slugs can reproduce asexually but most slugs seem to seek a mate. Within a few days after mating, the slug lays eggs into a hole in the ground. See Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. In warm weather these eggs can mature in as few as ten days. Efforts in the fall to eliminate slugs from the garden can not only eliminate fertile slugs that will lay eggs in the spring, eggs laid in the fall ,young slugs can be stopped from over wintering and destroying seedlings and emerging plants in the spring.
Once slugs are identified as the culprit the severity of the problem should be assessed. If a cursory inspection of the garden reveals numerous mature slugs of considerable size and even slug resistant plants are showing signs of slug damage a severe problem is present. Minimal plant damage, no visible slug trails nor mature slugs indicates a minor problem that pesticides or egg shells should correct.
When infestation is severe, drastic action should be taken. All plant debris and mulch should be removed from the affected area. Mulch provides a moist environment that slugs need to survive. Mulch also provides excellent hiding places for slugs and their eggs, making detection and removal extremely difficult. Mulch should be removed and the garden bed should not be re-mulched for at least a year. All yard waste, including mulch, should be disposed of, not composted for home use. If you compost this material you are merely relocating your slug population, not eliminating it.
The most severely damaged plants should be cut to the ground. Annuals should be removed first. Fall is the time annuals are removed from the garden so their absence in fall is not as ascetically unpleasing as removal would be during the rest of the growing season. Check the holes left by the removal of annuals for slugs and their eggs. Remove any signs of infestation. Cut the majority of the perennials to the ground, leaving some plants to serve as bait for the slug population. Dispose of the plant waste. Inspect the remainder of the plants for signs of infestation, not forgetting the remainder of any perennial you have cut to the ground. For seriously motivated gardeners, perennials can be dug up, inspected and replanted if eggs or slugs are not found in the root system or they have been removed. Throughout the fall continue to inspect your garden for indications of slug infestation and utilizing a hand rake or garden claw disturb the garden dirt so as to uncover and disrupt any slug hiding places or eggs. Keep the garden beds free of leaves and other garden waste since slugs are not only attracted to live plants but also to decaying garden matter. After the first freeze, cut the rest of your perennials to the ground.
Finally, check under material used as edging, such as bricks, stones or plastic. If the edging is permanent, utilizing a stick or garden tool, disrupt the ground by creating an indentation in the dirt on both sides of the edging material to discover eggs and active slugs. If your edging is movable, periodically turn your bricks or stones over and inspect them and the ground beneath for evidence of infestation. Garden ornamentation such as small statues, baskets, or flower pots should be checked regularly for live slugs as these ornaments serve as perfect hiding places for garden pests.
Finally prevent slugs from re entering your garden. Slugs will often hide in your lawn. During a particularly sluggy summer, slugs can be seen atop a lawn early in the morning or after a rainstorm. Slugs have also been observed dropping from trees, disturbing more than one early morning paperboy. Most garden books suggest copper striping as an effective slug barrier. Diatomaceous earth and lime are also mentioned. Only the copper striping does not need to be replaced after rain. Copper striping may be effective, but utilizing copper plumbing pipe was not effective in my experience. Dried crushed egg shells appear to have some effect as their edges become razor sharp and theoretically cut the slug causing death. Egg shells must be replaced when it rains but hopefully they add calcium to the soil. If there is evidence that your infestation is coming from either your lawn or adjoining gardens, daily sprinkling of dried egg shells, or any other barrier method is worth a try.
The most common suggestion for disposing of live slugs is to drop them in a bucket of soapy water where they drown. If lugging a bucket of watery dead slugs does not appeal to you , I have found placing them in paper yard waste bags which then must be tightly closed, will also work. A light dusting of salt on the top will ensure that any escapees will be stopped in their tracks. Placing the slugs in plastic bags used to pick up animal waste and disposing of them will also insure your garden pests will not return to their old chomping grounds.
If your slug problem is less severe, or you are obsessed by the need for a perfect garden, inspection in the fall will help you prevent (or at least slow) any slug problems in the spring. Each slug you remove is one more slug that cannot mate, reproduce, or over winter in the garden. Removing leaves, dead foliage, and annuals will go a long way to keeping your garden pest free. The garden will lose the important nutrients that homemade mulch can provide, but most leaves and annuals are removed in spring anyways. Perennials will survive the winter without protection and will look better in the spring if beds are cleaned in the fall. Rotating years when you utilize plant foliage and shredded leaves as additives to your garden is a prudent course of action when only minor slug infestation is present.
Handpicking slugs is dirty, slimy work. The results, especially if started in the fall and continued in the spring, will be a beautiful pest free garden. (Well almost). By getting down and dirty, a gardener becomes in tune to the garden habitat including garden pests and their lifecycles. Problems become easier to identify, thus can be corrected earlier before serious damage is done. Slugs are well adapted to thrive in the average garden. Interrupting their habitat and habits is the most effective way of controlling their population. While winter slug hunting is a little extreme, it may give a bored gardener something to do on a warm February day. Fall slug control; however, is a must for all gardeners who want beautiful plants come spring.
Wednesday, August 30, 2006
How to Put Summer in a Jar
Sometimes, though, enthusiasm gets the better of even the most experienced grower. We plant 10 extra, "Just in case," and then the drought doesn't happen. The sun shines every day and it rains just enough at night to give all the plants a nice drink. The deer and the bunnies don't play in the garden and suddenly you have not just that one beautiful fantastic first tomato or zucchini, you have 50. Every day for three weeks (you staggered your planting for an extra long harvesting season) your basket overflows. Soon, your family and neighbors turn their backs when they see you coming with a brown bag in hand. The kids whine, "Not_______ again!" You fill in the blank.
Worry not. The thing to do is put aside the sharing principle after the first give-away, keep the fruits of your labor, and put them up. 'Putting up' food means storing for later use by preserving. Believe me, there in nothing as toothsome as a fresh tomato sauce, made from your own tomatoes, when it's 11 degrees out and snowing.
The idea is to take the freshest foods, prepare and process them to kill the microorganisms and enzymes that cause food to spoil, and create an air-tight vacuum seal that allows the goodness of garden bounty to be preserved indefinitely.
"Sounds good," you say. "I've been wondering what to do with all these beans. How do I do it?"
I suggest you borrow a book on home canning from the library, read it, and then if the idea is still appealing buy a good, basic book on the topic. It will probably have the word 'complete' in its title because, like cooking or baking, preserving comes with its own terms, tools, and steps to follow and you'll need a good resource.
If you don't have a garden of your own but 'putting up' is still something you'd like to try this year, all is not lost. Follow the same book-borrowing, book-buying procedure detailed above and then purchase the bounty of someone else's garden or visit a nearby farm stand or co-op and buy some of their crop.
In fact, you needn't limit yourself to 'putting up' only vegetables or fruits. You also can 'put up' chili, soup, sauce, jams, jellies, meats, poultry, pickles, relish, potatoes, leafy greens, fish, clams, salsa, stew, stock, and even beef in wine sauce. There are many, many recipes available on the Web, in books or magazines, at your local University Extension and, of course, in your complete reference book.
Once you've found a great recipe, and before you harvest or buy the ingredients called for, make sure you have all the necessary equipment on hand.
First, you'll need a variety of clean glass jars (depending on what you're preserving these can range from half-pint to quart-sized) that should come with flat metal lids and screw tops. The second necessity is a large pan that will allow about 3 inches of water to cover the jars or a pressure canner. Third, are the utensils. You'll need a non-metallic spatula, a special jar lifter whose jaws are covered in soft plastic, a canning funnel, and a plastic stick that has a magnet attached to the end for lifting lid components out of hot water. These supplies are readily available, especially in August, at hardware stores, big-box stores such as Wal-Mart, some grocery stores, and, of course, online.
Now you're ready to begin. Allow yourself plenty of uninterrupted time when you're 'putting up' and you'll soon find that there's a rhythm to the process that's enjoyable in itself. When you're done put the jars up on an open shelf ('put up,' get it?) They're colorful and beautiful and every time you look at them you'll feel a sense of pride in your accomplishment.
The real joy will come, though, on the snowy day that you pull down a jar, open it, and take a sniff. Ahhh! Summer in a jar.
Monday, August 28, 2006
Composting
The hubby and I were at a family dinner function yesterday and while making a salad, my sister in law asked if my other sister in law had a composter. She said 'No', then she said. 'Don't judge me'. Well, we all kind of snickered but it got me to thinking about composting. How important is a composter for your garden and more importantly, the environment?
In the large city where I live, the powers that be have come out with 'green boxes'. Similar to 'blue boxes' which are used for recycling bottles, cans and papers; these 'green boxes' are used to recycle household waste. You are allowed to put food scraps, pizza boxes, Kleenexes - just about anything that will break down over a period of time into these carts. Most stores in my area sell these paper bags with a plastic like lining to keep the mushy stuff in and the contents are picked up once a week along with the garbage. This program is a test program for a few years to see how it will work out and to see if they want to continue with the program. The refuse is basically taken from households and sold back to the city's citizens as compost for their soil. On the other hand, you can purchase a composting unit from the city for $33 and go from there, but no matter what you do, like the Nike Commercial says, 'Just Do It'.
What is composting? Composting is the breaking down of organic material by bacteria and fungi. Why should you compost? Composting assists your soil in retaining nutrients and moisture. By composting, you will require fewer chemicals for your garden. Composted materials help the soil in your garden to become full of nutrients for your plants. Almost 45 percent of your garbage on a weekly basis can be turned into compost material; the key is just to get started. Green material such as lawn clippings and kitchen wastes contribute nitrogen and brown materials such as sawdust from untreated wood, vacuum cleaner, dry leaves and shredded newspapers (no colored advertisements put them in the recycle bin!) Keep in mind, however, that too much green can lead to overheating. The centre of your composter can reach temperatures up to sixty degrees (you can purchase compost thermometers).
You can make your own composter out of wood or metal. You can check at the library or on the Internet for plans. You can also go to the large hardware stores to purchase one or if you live in a large urban centre, the local government may sell them as well.
If you are a 'first time composter' like me, here is how to get started:
First, you will want to place you composter directly in the sunlight and on your soil, next you need to put a thick layer of organic material (such as hay, straw, leaves or branch cuttings) on the bottom of your container. Next you will want to alternate wet and dry scraps (kitchen with garden), shred the items that are going into the composter because the smaller they are, the faster it will decompose. If your kitchen scraps aren't that moist, you might want to consider wetting them down as this assists in the decomposition of the ingredients in your composter and helps with dust control to slow, but too much liquid will make it a soggy and stinky mess and causes the decomposition to slow down. Also, you will want to mix it up every couple of weeks or so, kind of like stirring. You will want to make sure that air can reach the contents of your composter. There are some things that should not be composted due to the nature of their makeup These include meat and fish bones, fats, oils, dairy products or pet waste. Also you will not want to add grass clippings or leaves that have been introduced to any sort of pesticide or the 'weed n feed' type of treatments.
Where I live, it gets pretty cold in the winter and the composting may stop during the coldest months as the stuff in the composter will most likely freeze (make sure the sides of your composter is well insulated and this will lesson its freezing time). If it does stop or slow, it will begin again during the spring months. Seasonal composting works quite well as well. In the fall, you can add fall leaves and bits from cleaning out your garden and kitchen scraps; during the winter, you can still add kitchen scraps and pine needles from your Christmas tree (as long as you chop them up) and during the spring, if you haven't already started, this is the time to start. Also in the spring you can continue to add kitchen scraps as well as cuttings and weeds from your garden.
After composting for awhile and adding the nutrients to your soil, think how great your garden will look and as an added bonus you will be able to feel good about doing your part both for your garden and for the environment!
In the large city where I live, the powers that be have come out with 'green boxes'. Similar to 'blue boxes' which are used for recycling bottles, cans and papers; these 'green boxes' are used to recycle household waste. You are allowed to put food scraps, pizza boxes, Kleenexes - just about anything that will break down over a period of time into these carts. Most stores in my area sell these paper bags with a plastic like lining to keep the mushy stuff in and the contents are picked up once a week along with the garbage. This program is a test program for a few years to see how it will work out and to see if they want to continue with the program. The refuse is basically taken from households and sold back to the city's citizens as compost for their soil. On the other hand, you can purchase a composting unit from the city for $33 and go from there, but no matter what you do, like the Nike Commercial says, 'Just Do It'.
What is composting? Composting is the breaking down of organic material by bacteria and fungi. Why should you compost? Composting assists your soil in retaining nutrients and moisture. By composting, you will require fewer chemicals for your garden. Composted materials help the soil in your garden to become full of nutrients for your plants. Almost 45 percent of your garbage on a weekly basis can be turned into compost material; the key is just to get started. Green material such as lawn clippings and kitchen wastes contribute nitrogen and brown materials such as sawdust from untreated wood, vacuum cleaner, dry leaves and shredded newspapers (no colored advertisements put them in the recycle bin!) Keep in mind, however, that too much green can lead to overheating. The centre of your composter can reach temperatures up to sixty degrees (you can purchase compost thermometers).
You can make your own composter out of wood or metal. You can check at the library or on the Internet for plans. You can also go to the large hardware stores to purchase one or if you live in a large urban centre, the local government may sell them as well.
If you are a 'first time composter' like me, here is how to get started:
First, you will want to place you composter directly in the sunlight and on your soil, next you need to put a thick layer of organic material (such as hay, straw, leaves or branch cuttings) on the bottom of your container. Next you will want to alternate wet and dry scraps (kitchen with garden), shred the items that are going into the composter because the smaller they are, the faster it will decompose. If your kitchen scraps aren't that moist, you might want to consider wetting them down as this assists in the decomposition of the ingredients in your composter and helps with dust control to slow, but too much liquid will make it a soggy and stinky mess and causes the decomposition to slow down. Also, you will want to mix it up every couple of weeks or so, kind of like stirring. You will want to make sure that air can reach the contents of your composter. There are some things that should not be composted due to the nature of their makeup These include meat and fish bones, fats, oils, dairy products or pet waste. Also you will not want to add grass clippings or leaves that have been introduced to any sort of pesticide or the 'weed n feed' type of treatments.
Where I live, it gets pretty cold in the winter and the composting may stop during the coldest months as the stuff in the composter will most likely freeze (make sure the sides of your composter is well insulated and this will lesson its freezing time). If it does stop or slow, it will begin again during the spring months. Seasonal composting works quite well as well. In the fall, you can add fall leaves and bits from cleaning out your garden and kitchen scraps; during the winter, you can still add kitchen scraps and pine needles from your Christmas tree (as long as you chop them up) and during the spring, if you haven't already started, this is the time to start. Also in the spring you can continue to add kitchen scraps as well as cuttings and weeds from your garden.
After composting for awhile and adding the nutrients to your soil, think how great your garden will look and as an added bonus you will be able to feel good about doing your part both for your garden and for the environment!
Friday, August 25, 2006
Transplanting our Peony
By Christina VanGinkel
It seems like just yesterday that my husband and I were planning our spring plantings. Today, amid the rain and cooler temperatures, it is becoming apparent that fall will be upon us very soon here in the Midwest. It always seems like it sneaks up on us. One day the temperatures are hovering close to one hundred and the next it seems like we are battling the cold and damp. My son plays his first football game of the season tomorrow too, and that is another solid indication that fall will soon arrive.
For years, we have talked about transplanting one very large princess pink peony. For anyone that has ever done this, you know that peonies do not like to be transplanted. If you must though, fall is the preferred time to do so. So with that in mind, we have begun the discussion once again. Should we move it? Where exactly will we move it? We each have a spot in mind, my husband and I, and each spot is nowhere near the other's desired location. The peony in question should be moved, deep down we know that, yet the idea of possibly bringing harm to a plant that in its current location thrives beautifully, seems like we would possibly be defeating our purpose before we even start.
Let me explain a bit more. The peony in question is planted in a flower box that buts up against a short wall of our house. This same wall is directly located next to our drive, where we park a minimum of two to three vehicles everyday. Of all of the flowers that we have growing in various parts of our gardens, we both claim the peony as our all time favorite, yet for the short occasions that we walk past it getting into or out of our vehicles, we never really have a chance to see it, much less enjoy it! Sure, others may get a quick peak of it in its current location, but aesthetically, it is in probably the worst place we could have chosen to plant it. For this reason, we have been contemplating its move ever since it grew into its full glory several years ago. Ironically, the spot it is in does not get a lot of sun and the drainage is not all that good, two specifics that peonies usually require. However, maybe as a last laugh at us for choosing to plant it in such a poor spot to begin with, it is thriving and flowers beautifully where it is.
With fall approaching once again, we have more or less decided that this will be the fall that we move it. We just have to agree on where exactly it is moving. We know that the fall is the best time of the year to transplant a peony, if you can ever really pick a good time. We know that we must be as considerate with the root structure as we can be, not disturbing it anymore than we absolutely must. The new hole should be able to accommodate the roots generously, which means that we will have to choose a location that is spacious enough to provide lots of room, because the peony in question is quite large to begin with, so the root structure is surely large. We know that when we do the actual transplanting, we should make sure that it is not replanted any deeper than it was in its original location. Planting it at a depth deeper than it was can cause shock, making it intolerant to a replanting more so than it most likely will be just from the actual move. As we replant it, we will take care that we pat the soil down slowly, not leaving pockets of air in the new soil to cave in, providing the heavy root structure cause to cave in and topple the whole thing.
Transplanting most plants is straightforward, and in all reality, the peony should not be any different from most any other plant. Peonies can be a bit bullheaded though, and for some reason they can occasionally balk at being moved. This will be the fall though, that the peony finally makes its move, if we can just make the decision on where it is moving!
It seems like just yesterday that my husband and I were planning our spring plantings. Today, amid the rain and cooler temperatures, it is becoming apparent that fall will be upon us very soon here in the Midwest. It always seems like it sneaks up on us. One day the temperatures are hovering close to one hundred and the next it seems like we are battling the cold and damp. My son plays his first football game of the season tomorrow too, and that is another solid indication that fall will soon arrive.
For years, we have talked about transplanting one very large princess pink peony. For anyone that has ever done this, you know that peonies do not like to be transplanted. If you must though, fall is the preferred time to do so. So with that in mind, we have begun the discussion once again. Should we move it? Where exactly will we move it? We each have a spot in mind, my husband and I, and each spot is nowhere near the other's desired location. The peony in question should be moved, deep down we know that, yet the idea of possibly bringing harm to a plant that in its current location thrives beautifully, seems like we would possibly be defeating our purpose before we even start.
Let me explain a bit more. The peony in question is planted in a flower box that buts up against a short wall of our house. This same wall is directly located next to our drive, where we park a minimum of two to three vehicles everyday. Of all of the flowers that we have growing in various parts of our gardens, we both claim the peony as our all time favorite, yet for the short occasions that we walk past it getting into or out of our vehicles, we never really have a chance to see it, much less enjoy it! Sure, others may get a quick peak of it in its current location, but aesthetically, it is in probably the worst place we could have chosen to plant it. For this reason, we have been contemplating its move ever since it grew into its full glory several years ago. Ironically, the spot it is in does not get a lot of sun and the drainage is not all that good, two specifics that peonies usually require. However, maybe as a last laugh at us for choosing to plant it in such a poor spot to begin with, it is thriving and flowers beautifully where it is.
With fall approaching once again, we have more or less decided that this will be the fall that we move it. We just have to agree on where exactly it is moving. We know that the fall is the best time of the year to transplant a peony, if you can ever really pick a good time. We know that we must be as considerate with the root structure as we can be, not disturbing it anymore than we absolutely must. The new hole should be able to accommodate the roots generously, which means that we will have to choose a location that is spacious enough to provide lots of room, because the peony in question is quite large to begin with, so the root structure is surely large. We know that when we do the actual transplanting, we should make sure that it is not replanted any deeper than it was in its original location. Planting it at a depth deeper than it was can cause shock, making it intolerant to a replanting more so than it most likely will be just from the actual move. As we replant it, we will take care that we pat the soil down slowly, not leaving pockets of air in the new soil to cave in, providing the heavy root structure cause to cave in and topple the whole thing.
Transplanting most plants is straightforward, and in all reality, the peony should not be any different from most any other plant. Peonies can be a bit bullheaded though, and for some reason they can occasionally balk at being moved. This will be the fall though, that the peony finally makes its move, if we can just make the decision on where it is moving!
Saturday, August 12, 2006
Orchid Growing Made Simple
By: Melissa Martinez
Growing orchids can be fun and rewarding but it can also be difficult. Orchids can be very sensitive plants that if not cared for properly will die. So a little research on the subject is probably a good idea. There are literally hundreds of species from which to choose from, but the species you will most likely see at your nursery is the Phaleonopsis orchid. These are what people think of when they think of orchids. Other popular species include cattleya, dendrobium, and oncidium varieties. I myself own the ones mentioned above. They are all beautiful and any orchid that you choose to purchase and care for is sure to enrich the beauty of your garden.
When caring for orchids there are many things to consider. Placement of the plant is important. Will your orchid be a house plant? If so, you need to make sure that there will be enough light available for the plant. Also consider placing your orchids near a fan since good air movement is also a must. If your orchids will be outside plants, be sure to place them in an area of equal sun and shade.
For the most part, you can tell how much light an orchid needs by the color of the leaves. Ideally, the leaves should be a light green. Keep in mind that an orchid with light green leaves has the best chance at blooming. If the leaves appear yellow or spotted it means the plant has too much sun and is darkening in order to protect itself from burning. Conversely, if the leaves turn a dark green then the plant most likely needs more light.
Another important issue that seems to puzzle orchid growers is how often watering should occur. An average orchid will only need to be watered once a week. Sometimes even less water is necessary. You have to play it by ear. Just remember that drier is usually better. don't worry too much if you skip watering once or twice. A good indicator of how well the plant is doing in the watering department are the roots. Healthy roots will appear white and fleshy with green tips. If your roots look like this, chances are your watering routine is just right. If on the other hand you notice any rotting roots then over watering may be taking place.
We've covered watering and lighting and so that brings us to potting issues. Hopefully, by now, you know that orchids should never be potted with regular potting soil. Your orchid will most surely die. The best potting material is a mixture of moss and fir bark. These enable the most water retention. When watering make sure to flush the bark well so that there is no salt buildup as this can be detrimental to the plant's health.
A lot of people also wonder whether they should fertilize their orchids. The short answer is that it doesn't hurt. An 18-18-18 mixture is the best. Also try to find one that is especially formulated for orchids. Follow the instructions on the label and you should be okay. Also, try not to fertilize more than twice per year.
Repotting your orchids doesn't have to be a chore. It is often only necessary if the plant has substantially overgrown its surroundings. This is usually evident when the body of the plant starts to topple out over the edge of the pot. If this occurs simply remove the old pot and place your orchid, minus any dried out roots, into a new pot. Add the moss and/or fir bark material and water it thoroughly. Fertilizing it at this point is okay too. Your orchid should make itself at home in no time.
Like most orchid owners, I have confronted all of the above issues and have been able to fall into an effective orchid care routine. One thing that keeps plaguing me, however, are bugs. Specifically, ants have been a major problem. So far they don't seem to harm the plant when it is not in bloom, but one year they managed to kill all the buds on my cattleya. I invested in an all purpose bug spray that seemed to stop their infestation, if only temporarily. My best advice based on my experience is to keep an eye on the pesky buggers. If you notice too many of them taking hold of your blooms, take action. Remove them manually, if necessary. If you don't, chances are they will feed on all of the nectar, thus killing the possibility of your orchid blooming.
I hope these tips will help you in your efforts to grow your orchids successfully.
Growing orchids can be fun and rewarding but it can also be difficult. Orchids can be very sensitive plants that if not cared for properly will die. So a little research on the subject is probably a good idea. There are literally hundreds of species from which to choose from, but the species you will most likely see at your nursery is the Phaleonopsis orchid. These are what people think of when they think of orchids. Other popular species include cattleya, dendrobium, and oncidium varieties. I myself own the ones mentioned above. They are all beautiful and any orchid that you choose to purchase and care for is sure to enrich the beauty of your garden.
When caring for orchids there are many things to consider. Placement of the plant is important. Will your orchid be a house plant? If so, you need to make sure that there will be enough light available for the plant. Also consider placing your orchids near a fan since good air movement is also a must. If your orchids will be outside plants, be sure to place them in an area of equal sun and shade.
For the most part, you can tell how much light an orchid needs by the color of the leaves. Ideally, the leaves should be a light green. Keep in mind that an orchid with light green leaves has the best chance at blooming. If the leaves appear yellow or spotted it means the plant has too much sun and is darkening in order to protect itself from burning. Conversely, if the leaves turn a dark green then the plant most likely needs more light.
Another important issue that seems to puzzle orchid growers is how often watering should occur. An average orchid will only need to be watered once a week. Sometimes even less water is necessary. You have to play it by ear. Just remember that drier is usually better. don't worry too much if you skip watering once or twice. A good indicator of how well the plant is doing in the watering department are the roots. Healthy roots will appear white and fleshy with green tips. If your roots look like this, chances are your watering routine is just right. If on the other hand you notice any rotting roots then over watering may be taking place.
We've covered watering and lighting and so that brings us to potting issues. Hopefully, by now, you know that orchids should never be potted with regular potting soil. Your orchid will most surely die. The best potting material is a mixture of moss and fir bark. These enable the most water retention. When watering make sure to flush the bark well so that there is no salt buildup as this can be detrimental to the plant's health.
A lot of people also wonder whether they should fertilize their orchids. The short answer is that it doesn't hurt. An 18-18-18 mixture is the best. Also try to find one that is especially formulated for orchids. Follow the instructions on the label and you should be okay. Also, try not to fertilize more than twice per year.
Repotting your orchids doesn't have to be a chore. It is often only necessary if the plant has substantially overgrown its surroundings. This is usually evident when the body of the plant starts to topple out over the edge of the pot. If this occurs simply remove the old pot and place your orchid, minus any dried out roots, into a new pot. Add the moss and/or fir bark material and water it thoroughly. Fertilizing it at this point is okay too. Your orchid should make itself at home in no time.
Like most orchid owners, I have confronted all of the above issues and have been able to fall into an effective orchid care routine. One thing that keeps plaguing me, however, are bugs. Specifically, ants have been a major problem. So far they don't seem to harm the plant when it is not in bloom, but one year they managed to kill all the buds on my cattleya. I invested in an all purpose bug spray that seemed to stop their infestation, if only temporarily. My best advice based on my experience is to keep an eye on the pesky buggers. If you notice too many of them taking hold of your blooms, take action. Remove them manually, if necessary. If you don't, chances are they will feed on all of the nectar, thus killing the possibility of your orchid blooming.
I hope these tips will help you in your efforts to grow your orchids successfully.
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